“The first time you eat gefilte fish Veracruzana you realize that your whole concept of gefilte fish needs to be turned on its head, that a new gefilte fish line needs to be drawn, not just the line that divides the sweet and the salty, but one dividing the spicy from the non-spicy; the hot from cold. Like traditional Ashkenazi-style gefilte fish, Veracruz-style gefilte fish still centers around a poached fish ball, but that’s where the similarities end. Instead of being made of carp and other cold water fish, it’s constructed from the Gulf of Mexico-dwelling red snapper. Instead of being served cold in its own jellied stock, it’s served warm and poached in a spicy sauce of tomatoes, capers, chilies, peppers, and olives. It is the most delicious gefilte fish I’ve ever eaten.”

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