Right before the coronavirus pandemic hit the United States, I was making my way back from the northern Mexican state of Sonora, where I was filming my public-television series, “Pati’s Mexican Table.”

Sonora is known as mainly a cattle state, so I was surprised to find there some of the best shrimp tacos I have ever had. I learned to make them from the creator himself, a charismatic man named Toño Contreras, owner of Mariscos El Rey. He began his career selling shellfish on the beach, then he had a little seafood stand, and now he has a few restaurants under his belt.

Read the full article here.