“Not all that long ago, at least at the restaurants I was going to, the idea of vegetarian Mexican food was more about absence of meat than presence of vegetables. A taqueria that had several choices of meat, poultry and seafood fillings, and accompanied each with beans, cabbage, onions, peppers and the like, would merely serve all the accoutrements when you asked for something vegetarian.
Thankfully, so much has changed, as Americans’ understanding of Mexico’s complex cuisines has deepened, and as the celebration of vegetables has grown the world over. Washington’s Pati Jinich, the charming host of the public-television show Pati’s Mexican Table, has seen the changes firsthand as someone who keeps tabs on where her country’s cooking is headed. Her new book, Mexico Today, is for omnivores, but it showcases a surprising number of vegetarian dishes — including plenty that showcase vegetables beyond the expected beans (although they’re worth showcasing, too). There’s a green pozole with zucchini, chayote and mushrooms; a pizza with zucchini and poblano peppers; a salad of roasted asparagus and cherry tomatoes; crepe enchiladas with Swiss chard and potatoes; and more…”
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