Mexican Style Eggs: A la Papi

Posted on by patiadmin

“All I want is a hamburger, a hot dog, a Pizza, a nice big steak, some Texas style bar-b-q and a big plate of pancakes… no tacos or anything Mexican ok?” My dad said, after devouring the welcoming meal I prepared for him, which happened to be Tacos de Guisado.

Guisados are Mexican style stews, which can be ladled into warm corn tortillas. There are plenty of Fondas or small restaurants that specialize in them throughout Mexico. Since my dad loves them, I received him with three of his favorites: Chicken Tinga heavy on the chipotle, beef cooked in a green salsa with cubed potatoes and nopalitos, cactus paddles, sauteed with onion, Guajillo Chilies and corn. There were also refried beans and white rice, as they are such friendly sides to tacos.

After he made it clear that he didn’t want anything Mexican for the next three days, making me laugh so hard along the way, we set off to satisfy his cravings.

The next morning we were at the pancake place in front of a double stack of buttermilk pancakes with butter, extra maple syrup and bacon. And some grits. It was hard to make him wait for lunch.  When he lost all patience he dragged me to the Pizza place and then had a Hot Fudge Sundae from across the street. Dinner came around soon enough along with steaks, baked potatoes and a Mexican Chayote salad I sneaked in there.

The next morning, after lox and bagels at home, we went for a late Texas style bar-b-q lunch. Dinner was a Reuben with lots of dill pickles and a potato salad. But the last morning he couldn’t help it.

mexican style eggs
Onion, Jalapeño chiles and tomatoes, getting ready to welcome some beaten eggs.

As he tied one of my aprons around his waist, he announced, I am making the best Huevos a la Mexicana that you have ever tried in your life. So we chopped just enough onion, less tomatoes than I would have wanted and a lot of Jalapeños. As he cooked, he used strange and probably non-existing terms to describe what made his eggs so tasty… See how I am un-rawing the onion and mushing the tomato?

There are countless egg dishes in Mexican cooking, one better than the other. But these are the ones I prepare the most at home. They are easy to make, super tasty and dress up a breakfast in a wink. What’s more, I always have oil, eggs, tomatoes, onion and either Jalapeño or Serrano chiles handy.

Although the ingredients are always the same, versions can vary. That is mostly because some people like my dad cook the tomatoes slightly, while others like me cook the tomatoes until they are pasty and smooshy looking (I see where I get my funny use of terms now). The ratio of ingredients also varies. I use more tomatoes than my dad, but we both like it spicy. Whereas I like to eat them with hot corn tortillas, my dad likes to eat them with toasted sandwich bread (some people love these eggs with a side of toast smothered in cream cheese and that is pretty tasty too…).

This just makes me think of how accommodating Mexican food is. You can learn a basic idea and how to make it, and then tweak it to your preference.

Though while we were making breakfast I was craving for more tomatoes in those eggs, and wishing we could cook them a bit more, I have to admit that his version that morning topped off any that I have tried. Maybe it was because of the way he explained why his version was the most incredible in the world, maybe it was because of how much he enjoyed eating them and scooping some into corn tortillas to make some tacos for me (he had said no more tacos but one can only go so many days without tacos, you know?), or maybe it was because I was sad to see him go.

We didn’t get to the hot dogs or the hamburgers. I had thought of the places to take him so he could eat them all, but we ran out of time. But as it’s been said, you have to leave something for the next time if you want that next time to happen. I have until then to recover from all that eating.

Meanwhile, I leave you with a recipe for Huevos a la Mexicana, my father’s style, with some notes on my variations. But you can come up with yours!

Pati's dad looking out the window
My dad looking out the window, almost time for the airport.
Mexican Style Eggs
Print Recipe
5 from 6 votes

Eggs a la Mexicana

There are countless egg dishes in Mexican cooking, one better than the other. But these are the ones I prepare the most at home. They are easy to make, super tasty and dress up a breakfast in a wink. What’s more, I always have oil, eggs, tomatoes, onion and either Jalapeño or Serrano chiles handy.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time15 minutes
Course: Breakfast
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: corn tortillas, Eggs, jalapeno, onion, pati's mexican table, serrano chiles, Tomatoes
Servings: 4 people
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons corn, safflower or vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup white onion chopped
  • 1 jalapeño or serrano chile seeded if less heat desired and finely chopped, or more to taste ( we went for 3)
  • 3/4 pound ripe tomatoes about 2 cups chopped (I add an extra cup)
  • 8 eggs lightly beaten
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt more or less to taste
  • Hot corn tortillas or pieces of toast

Instructions

  • Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions, and cook stirring often for about 4 minutes, until they have softened but not browned. Stir in the chiles, cook for another minute. Incorporate the chopped tomatoes and let the mix cook and season, stirring often, for about 5 minutes (I let them cook about 4 to 5 minutes more until tomatoes are thoroughly cooked, mushy and their red color has deepened).
  • Meanwhile, crack the eggs in a bowl, add some salt, and beat them with a whisk or fork. Lower the heat to medium-low and pour eggs over the tomato mix. Stir as the eggs cook until desired donenness, but don't let them dry up. Serve with a side of refried beans, hot tortillas or a piece of toast.

Notes

Huevos a la Mexicana

A True Mexican Collectible: Versatile Summertime Salsas…

Posted on by patiadmin

When asked recently whether I was a collector of some sort, I thought of my grandmother’s cabinet that holds hundreds of elephant figurines — more than 60 years’ worth, from many places. And she’s still adding to the lot. So my response was no.

Then a few days later I realized that I am a collector: of foods tasted throughout my life, or at least the memories of them. This is especially true of salsas. I have countless papers scattered on my desk with notes about the names of them, the places I ate them, their ingredients, the cooks who made them and, when generously given, directions on how to re-create them.

When the mood strikes, I search to find that precise note (which may be in a coat pocket, bag or drawer). Or I sit down with eyes closed and try to remember the feel of the sauce.

When all else fails, I make one up.

If you look in my refrigerator, you will find a salsa. That is mainly because my husband is always asking for one but also because salsas can pump up the beauty and richness of any meal. To me, salsas are one of the exceptional elements of Mexican cooking: delicious, accommodating and versatile. Among the many possibilities, we eat salsas on top of rice, beans, potatoes; alongside meats, chicken, seafood and vegetables; spooned inside or outside all sorts of dishes such as tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas; scooped with a piece of toast and spooned straight from the container.

I wouldn’t dare guess how many salsas there are in Mexican cooking as I am sure to be wrong, and the cuisine keeps evolving. But I can safely say that if I were to give you a different salsa to taste each month, my lifetime, however long, wouldn’t give us enough time to cover the choices.

Salsas can be eaten from morning till night, and are known to be especially savored after midnight when the food stands on Mexican streets — and some in Los Angeles, as well — serve their secret-recipe salsas with antojos and quick dishes. The late-night crowds crave them.

Some are made with dozens of ingredients, prepared in laborious ways. Others use a few easy-to-find ingredients and can be assembled in minutes. For me, the latter sound like the perfect salsas for summer.

Three of my no-cook favorites, from my ever-growing and scattered collection, are a raw tomatillo and chipotle salsa, made lush with the addition of avocado and fresh cheese; a luxurious mango salsa with slivers of red onion, jalapeño and chopped cilantro; and a versatile, ancho chili pickled salsa, which keeps in the fridge for months.

If you are so inclined, please leave comments online about the accompanying recipes (or share with me whatever food-related things you tend to gather). I will collect them all.

This article was written for and published by The Washington Post on August 5, 2009 The Washington Post.

salsa verde or tomatillo salsa
Print Recipe
5 from 2 votes

Raw Tomatillo and Chipotle Salsa Verde

A raw tomatillo and chipotle salsa made lush with the addition of avocado and fresh cheese.
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time0 minutes
Total Time10 minutes
Course: Appetizer, Sauce
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Avocado, Chipotle, cruda, queso fresco, raw, Recipe, Salsa, salsa verde, tomatillos
Servings: 2 cups salsa approximately
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1 pound tomatillos husked, rinsed and quartered
  • 1 medium garlic clove coarsely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped white onion
  • Leaves and thin stems from 4 or 5 stems of cilantro coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
  • 2 tablespoons sauce from canned chipotle chiles in adobo plus 1 canned chipotle chile (optional)
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or more to taste
  • 1 ripe avocado cut into large dice (optional)
  • 8 ounces queso fresco cotija, or farmers cheese, cut into large dice (optional)

Instructions

  • Combine the quartered tomatillos, garlic, onion, cilantro, sauce from the canned chipotle chiles, the canned chipotle chile, if desired, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Puree until smooth, then transfer to a 2-cup container with a tight-fitting lid.
  • At this point, the salsa can be covered and refrigerated for a day.
  • When ready to serve, transfer to a serving bowl; add the avocado and cheese, if desired. Toss gently to combine. Taste and adjust salt as needed.

Notes

Salsa Verde Cruda con Chipotle
Fresh Mango Salsa
Print Recipe
5 from 5 votes

Fresh Mango Salsa

A luxurious mango salsa with slivers of red onion, jalapeño and chopped cilantro.
Prep Time10 minutes
Resting Time10 minutes
Total Time20 minutes
Course: Appetizer, Sauce
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: mango, Pico de Gallo, raw, Recipe, Salsa
Servings: 4 1/2 cups salsa
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1/2 medium red onion cut into very thin slivers (about 1/3 cup)
  • Juice from 2 limes about 4 tablespoons
  • 2 1/2 pounds (about 4) ripe mangoes peeled and cut into large dice
  • 1 large jalapeño pepper stemmed, seeded and finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons, or more to taste)
  • Leaves from 4 stems cilantro finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or more to taste

Instructions

  • Combine the onion and lime juice in a mixing bowl; toss to coat and let sit for 10 minutes.
  • Combine the mango, jalapeno, cilantro, oil and salt in a separate mixing bowl. Add the onion and lime juice mixture when it’s ready and toss to mix well. Taste and add salt or jalapeno as needed.

Notes

Pico de Gallo de Mango
ancho chile salsa
Print Recipe
3.88 from 8 votes

Ancho Chile Salsa (or Pickle)

This marinated salsa – more like a pickle or relish – is sweet, mildly spicy, and beguiling. It is a very versatile salsa, too, as you can use it like a regular salsa and spoon it on top of any kind of antojito, like tacos, quesadillas, and even scoop it up with chips. It can also act as a luxurious relish for grilled meat, chicken or seafood, not to mention paninis, tortas or hamburgers. You can also use it as the surprising final touch on crostinis with a base of goat or fresh cheese, or cherry tomatoes… And these are just a few options.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time8 hours
Course: Sauce
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: ancho chiles, brown sugar, chile, garlic, onion, piloncillo, Recipe, Salsa, vinegar
Servings: 2 cups
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 6 to 8 ancho chiles rinsed, stemmed and seeded, about 3 ounces
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
  • 1 clove garlic finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
  • 1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or coarse sea salt or to taste
  • 2 teaspoons brown sugar or grated piloncillo or to taste

Instructions

  • Using kitchen scissors or a sharp knife, cut the stemmed and seeded chiles lengthwise into thin strips and place them in a mixing bowl. Add the onion, garlic, vinegars, oil, salt and sugar to the bowl and toss to mix well. Transfer everything to a container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate for at least 8 hours before using.

Notes

Escabeche de Chile Ancho

Comal

Posted on by patiadmin

An essential cooking tool in Mexican kitchens, a comal is a flat plate or griddle, typically made with cast iron and a rim around the edges. They are usually round and found in many sizes, though there are some rectangular versions too. There are also comales made with aluminum, and in later years it has become quite popular to use the non-stick/teflon versions as they are more user friendly.

Comales were traditionally made, for centuries, with clay. In the countryside there are plenty of homes and fondas that still use clay comales and tend to have one for making tortillas and corn masa foods and another for charring or toasting vegetables and spices.

Here you can see the three different types of comales. In the back is a rectangular teflon, followed by an aluminum comal which is happily showing seasoning and aging signs, and up front is an old cast iron comal. Whichever comal you have, clean it lightly, with warm water, soap and a gentle sponge, so that if it is cast iron or aluminum it will slowly season, and if it is teflon it will not scratch.

Here is a more close up view…

Comal 1
Comales tend to be passed down through generations and are deeply esteemed. The comal that I treasure the most, up front in the above photos, comes from my mothers’ kitchen. It has about of 40 years of cooking life, has a beautiful black color with dark brown areas and it is not completely flat. It has dents, chips and texture developed through time and travels, which speak its history every time I cook in it.

When I went to Yucatán in December of 2008, I got a very large silver colored aluminum comal which is already starting to develop blackened areas throughout, but it will take a while for it to be seasoned and to flavor foods as intensely as my older comal.

Comales are used for many things such as cooking tortillas, sopes, quesadillas and other related masa foods; charring tomatoes, tomatillos, fresh chiles, onion and garlic; toasting seeds, nuts, dried chiles and other spices; cooking vegetables like nopales or catcus paddles, corn, big texas style onions and scallions, among other things.

You can find comales in international, Asian and Latin stores, as well as on the web. Or, you can substitute a comal with any other kind of cast iron plate or griddle or a heavy dry skillet, preferably non-stick if making tortillas.

However, there are benefits from having your own comal.  For one thing, as other Mexican kitchen tools such as molcajetes, aluminum and cast iron comales age with you, season with time and retain a memory of the flavors from their cooking life that permeates future foods cooked in them. Another benefit is that the comal infuses food with a rustic griddle flavor, lighter than a grill or smoker, but peculiar, rich and deep in its own way.

Comales are such an integral part of Mexican cuisine and culture that a town in one of Mexico’s most famous novels is named after it. If you like reading, I recommend it! It is called Pedro Páramo by Juan Rulfo. It tells the story of a man who travels to the hometown of his dying mother, and along the way he runs into a ghost town called Comala, which translates to a place that makes comales. The fictional town of Comala (though there is a real town called Comala too, if not more…) has probably become larger than the novel and even the author in Mexican folklore and culture. It is said that the author gave it this name because the fictional town was eternally burning hot, just like a comal, which is typically used for long periods of time, many times a day and takes a long while to cool off.