By Eduardo | @eduardoplaschinski
The experience at Alfonsina starts the moment you walk into Jorge Leon’s home on the outskirts of Oaxaca Airport. You’ll be driving through windy, narrow streets until you reach one of the many dirt roads of San Juan Bautista La Raya, Oaxaca. The first time you visit Alfonsina, you’ll probably be driving up and down the street a hundred times with no luck finding the place. No signage, Alfonsina is located inside a modest brick home. Home to Jorge, his mom, siblings and cousins. Together they work hard to serve affordable lunch menus to the community nearby and a 5-course menu available to those who seek a simply delicious meal.
Each day, early in the morning the team visits la Central de Abasto market in the heart of Oaxaca to buy fresh fruits and vegetables that are grown in different parts of the state which accompany dishes based on corn, seafood, and meat. Jorge’s family is originally from the Mixteca, a small community 4 hours from the city. This is where the corn and meat come from.
You’ll be sitting in a naturally-lit room with two communal tables facing a small open kitchen. Jorge’s dad does the nixtamalización, his mom will be making the tortillas, his siblings will be serving, and one of his cousins will be cooking right next to him.
Dishes range from an enmolada to fresh fish with jicama or a sope with sausage sourced from Etla, a small valley in Oaxaca. For dessert a traditional cup filled with fruit jello, yogurt, and fresh fruit.
Jorge’s career brought him through some of the best restaurants in the country such as Casa Oaxaca and Pujol, though it’s back at home where he’s chosen to do what he loves.
Alfonsina works based on a direct message reservation system, it is not open to the public. If you’re reading this you’ll want to know how to reserve for your next trip to Oaxaca — it’s as easy as messaging @cocinan on Instagram.
Alfonsina, Calle García Vigil 183, San Juan Bautista la Raya, Oax., Mexico