By Eduardo | @eduardoplaschinski
The experience at Alfonsina starts the moment you walk into Jorge Leon’s home on the outskirts of Oaxaca Airport. You’ll be driving through windy, narrow streets until you reach one of the many dirt roads of San Juan Bautista La Raya, Oaxaca. The first time you visit Alfonsina, you’ll probably be driving up and down the street a hundred times with no luck finding the place. No signage, Alfonsina is located inside a modest brick home. Home to Jorge, his mom, siblings and cousins. Together they work hard to serve affordable lunch menus to the community nearby and a 5-course menu available to those who seek a simply delicious meal.
Each day, early in the morning the team visits la Central de Abasto market in the heart of Oaxaca to buy fresh fruits and vegetables that are grown in different parts of the state which accompany dishes based on corn, seafood, and meat. Jorge’s family is originally from the Mixteca, a small community 4 hours from the city. This is where the corn and meat come from.
You’ll be sitting in a naturally-lit room with two communal tables facing a small open kitchen. Jorge’s dad does the nixtamalización, his mom will be making the tortillas, his siblings will be serving, and one of his cousins will be cooking right next to him.
Dishes range from an enmolada to fresh fish with jicama or a sope with sausage sourced from Etla, a small valley in Oaxaca. For dessert a traditional cup filled with fruit jello, yogurt, and fresh fruit.
Jorge’s career brought him through some of the best restaurants in the country such as Casa Oaxaca and Pujol, though it’s back at home where he’s chosen to do what he loves.
Alfonsina works based on a direct message reservation system, it is not open to the public. If you’re reading this you’ll want to know how to reserve for your next trip to Oaxaca — it’s as easy as messaging @cocinan on Instagram.
Alfonsina, Calle García Vigil 183, San Juan Bautista la Raya, Oax., Mexico
virginia s rodriguez
I am looking for a recipe colled corundas, if passible can you send it to me @ firstname.lastname@example.org??????
i have searching the internet and cannot find anything close
Hola Virginia, I love Corundas from Michoacan, yummy! I will try to work on a recipe soon to share with you, thanks!
Pati do you have receipes for all the places in Mexico that you visit? I wrote you a letter this summer. I don’t know if you received it. I do not have twitter, instagram, only my computer which is just basic. Can you put receipes on , so I can see them, and print some. Thanks, Diane I have watches you since you were on create. I like it very much
Hi Diane! All my recipes are here on the website, both in English and in Spanish, and you can print the ones you like! Please let me know if there is one in particular that you would like to have and I will send you the link 🙂
I have had nothing but wonderful food during my stays in Oaxaca. From the mercados and street vendors to the small local eateries and up to incredibly fine restaurants, but yesterday I had lunch at Alfonsina’s and it was by far the most unique, beautiful and delicious experience in Oaxaca to date!
If you come to Oaxaca you must visit Alfonsina’s! Thank you Pati for such a wonderful recommendation. Your recipes, TV shows and books are all outstanding!
Thrilled to hear this, Carl!
I don’t have Instagram. Is there another way to make a reservation at Alfonsina’s? I’m going in January 202
You can also email them: https://www.newworlder.com/article/19872/restaurant-of-the-year-alfonsina
We made a reservation for late December. Super excited 🙂
Have a really great time, Kirsten!
I’m here in Oaxaca right now!
Amazing!! Have a great time, Deb.
This is definitely on my list for my next trip to Oaxaca, thanks for the tip!
We took a cooking class near Etla and shopped the Etla market last time I was there. I love that area of Mexico and the people!
Your class sounds like fun, Ginger! I hope you get to go Alfonsina soon.
Muchas gracias Pati. We love Oaxaca but did not know of this place. We will definitely try it next trip. Have you ever had Caldo de Piedra in Oaxaca? It is from the Chinantec people from Northwestern Oaxaca state. Simply terrific and well worth going out of your way for. There are some restaurants near Oaxaca that serve it. Our favorite restaurant (simply called Caldo de Piedra) is located at 5 de mayo esquina, Murguía 210, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico. More info at https://masdemx.com/2017/04/caldo-de-piedra-platillo-chinantecos-preparado-hombres-oaxaca/.
Thanks for the tip, Bill!
Wish we would have known about this when we visited Oaxaca a few years back!
Now you have a good reason to return 😉.