By Eduardo | @cazadordelomejor
Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s most interesting states, rich with culture, ingredients and tradition, and is home to a small and simple eatery that a big part of the country’s foodies talk about.
Itanoní is basically made up of plastic chairs, tables, colorful decorations hanging from the ceiling, clay comales and señoras who have a lot of experience cooking on them. Here you’ll find anyone from local kids enjoying an afternoon snack to business executives stopping in for lunch.
The main ingredient here is heirloom corn in many different varieties. Once the corn has gone through the nixtamal process and has been transformed into masa, lots of different dishes are made. The menu ranges from tetelas, which are triangular corn masa pockets that can be filled with various ingredients, such as fresh cheese and squash blossoms, to the traditional fried egg over a warm tortilla finished with a fresh acuyo leaf and a little red or green salsa.
A century ago, there was a lot more heirloom corn on the Mexican market than there is today. A lot of different varieties of heirloom corn got contaminated with genetically modified corns. Itanoní has managed to maintain using a rainbow of heirloom varieties and is one of the few restaurants in Mexico that do so.
Itanoní Tortillería y Antojería, Av Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma, Oaxaca