Achiote or Annatto Seeds

Achiote or Annatto seeds is a spice that grows heavily in the Yucatán area and is unique and native to this area. The seeds come from the Annatto tree, which grows beautiful pink flowers that produce a prickly pod which has dozens and dozens of these seeds inside.

The seeds have a beautiful brown, brick, reddish warm and appealing color. The Mayas used the seeds since Pre-Hispanic times to color their skin, garments, art and they also mixed them with their chocolate drink as a symbol of blood, given the color, in their rites. The seeds provide a strong, pungent and sort of permanent flavor to the dishes they are used in.

Achiote Paste or Recado Rojo

The achiote paste or recado rojo, is one of the main seasonings of the Yucatecan cuisine. Although it is mainly known for its use as the base of a marinade in the Pibil style dishes, it is used in many other ways.

This paste is made of achiote seeds, charred garlic, toasted herbs and spices such as oregano, cloves, cumin, black peppercorns, allspice, coriander seeds, salt and bitter orange or its substitute, which is a mix of citrus juices and/or vinegar.

Achiote paste has, like achiote seeds, a beautiful and warm brick-like color and a strong and pungent flavor. It keeps for months stored in a fresh and shaded area of the kitchen.

Luckily, it can now be found in many international and Latin stores or online.

 

Banana Leaves

Incredibly long leaves from the banana tree, the banana leaves have a beautiful deep green color and a strong fragrant smell. They are often used in Mexican cooking to wrap and cook many kinds of foods including tamales, meats, fish and poultry. They are both malleable and strong. Cooking in them not only concentrates the flavors of the wrapped ingredients but it also infuses them with a grassy, intensely aromatic and fresh feel.

Banana leaves used to be hard to find in the US when I moved here more than a dozen years ago.

Yet these days, banana leaves can be found in many large grocery stores in the frozen vegetable sections as well as in Latin and ethnic shops.

Salami de Chocolate (with Coffee Liqueur made with Tequila)

Come December, everyone seems to be thinking about end of the year traditional tasty treats. Though in my family we used to eat them all year round; chocolate salami came to mind, as it is such a funny, creative and addicting nibble. It works great to bring along to friends (it will make them laugh, you will see), as well as to keep some at home for an anytime sweet bite, since they keep in the freezer for months.

Growing up, my sisters and I used to make batches in minutes. We also managed to eat so much of the chunky, crunchy, funky, gooey batter in the seconds it took to transfer the mix to the wrapping papers set on the table. We would get all messy as we helped my oldest sister give the dough their salami shapes. Then, it was so hard to wait, until the chocolate salamis were frozen and hard enough to slice.

My oldest sister, Karen, told me the recipe came from a Women Community-Cooperative cookbook called Tu y Yo Cocinando (You and I Cooking) which was popular in Mexico City around the 70’s. That book was one of those fabulous gems, where participants pitched in their tried and true favorite recipes.

Now my sisters and I are all grown up and raising our families in different cities and countries. Yet, we all make chocolate salamis for our kids. None of us have the cookbook anymore (it makes me sad to think of all the wonders we are missing). As time moved on, we each have given this dessert our own personal spin, with no recipe, just by hunch as we each have made it so many times.

However one thing remains, we all use Maria cookies since they have such a deliciously loud crunch and the perfect balance of sweetness. Brought to Mexico by the Spaniards more than five centuries ago, they grew deep and strong roots in Mexico’s kitchens. Today, you can find them in most grocery stores throughout the US too. If you can’t find them, you can substitute with vanilla wafers or plain Graham crackers.

Here, I am sharing my personal spin.

The recipe below makes two generous chocolate salami portions. I like to mix half the batter with pecans and Tequila. It is absolutely to die for and gives this treat a rich and interesting layer of flavor with just a hint of alcohol. Some Mexican cooks add Rum or Kahlua to the mix as well.

I leave the other half of the batter plain for my boys (yes, it kills me, but they are picky eaters).  This is one of those desserts that is pretty accommodating.  Now that I think about it, some dried cherries would be pretty amazing in that mix too… But you can play around and see what flavors you would like to the mix as well…

chocolate salami
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5 from 4 votes

Salami de Chocolate (with Coffee Liqueur made with Tequila)

Come December, everyone seems to be thinking about end of the year traditional tasty treats. Though in my family we used to eat them all year round; chocolate salami came to mind, as it is such a funny, creative and addicting nibble. It works great to bring along to friends (it will make them laugh, you will see…), as well as to keep some at home for an anytime sweet bite, since they keep in the freezer for months.
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time2 hours
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Chocolate, cookies, Dessert, Maria Cookies, pecans, Recipe, tequila, vanilla
Servings: 2 logs (6 to 8 people)
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces or 225 grams bittersweet chocolate
  • 3/4 cup unsalted butter
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 5 egg yolks
  • 12 ounces Maria cookies broken into small pieces, or plain Graham crackers or Vanilla Wafers
  • 4 tablespoons coffee liqueur made with tequila rum or kahlua, optional
  • 1/2 cup pecans lightly toasted and roughly chopped, optional

Instructions

  • In a double boiler over simmering water, melt the chocolate and cocoa powder along with the butter. Remove from the heat and stir the mix into a large heatproof bowl. Pour in the sugar and vanilla and combine with a spatula in a circular motion. Slowly add the egg yolks, one by one, mixing very well after each addition. Fold in the broken cookie chunks. If adding the tequila and pecans, fold them all in as well. You will have a moist and chunky, rough looking mix.
  • Cut 2 pieces of waxed or parchment paper of about 15" length. Spoon half of the mixture onto each piece of paper. Shape them into logs with your hands. Roll them in the paper and give them a salami shape of about 2" thickness. Having the paper cover makes it easy to give them a quick roll to give them a round shape. To finish, twist the ends in opposite directions.
  • If you made some with liquor and/or pecans and the other without, use a marker to recognize them when ready. Then wrap each one in a layer of plastic wrap. Place them in the freezer for about 2 or 3 hours or until frozen. Slice them as thin or thick as you like, while frozen, and serve.
  • Chocolate salami will keep in the freezer, tightly wrapped, for about 6 months. Remove from the freezer around 10 minutes before you want to slice it.
  • If you bring them over as gifts, you may want to buy colored paper to give them a festive feel, though I also like to use brown/unbleached parchment paper. It gives them a deli style. In any case, if you traveled with them for a while, don't forget to tell your friends to place the chocolate salamis in the freezer or refrigerator as soon as you give it to them (!).

Guest: Cristina Potters’ Refried Beans

In this post, I have invited Cristina Potters to be a guest and share one of her favorite recipes. Cristina is the author of Mexico Cooks!, a culinary and cultural website about all things Mexico. She is also known for giving outstanding tours. 

A Chicago native who arrived in Mexico in 1981, she was first a social worker in Tijuana.  Now, after 30 years, she is a permanent fixture in Morelia, Michoacan.  She learned the cuisines of the central highlands of Mexico from the Mayoras (Michoacan home cooks). Now, without further ado, here is Cristina…

I’d like to offer my personal recipes for frijoles refritos and frijoles de la olla. The following recipe for refried beans is not only simple and delicious; it converts people who turn up their noses at ordinary refried beans into folks who insist on another helping!

Christina Potters Refried Beans 1

In central Mexico, the most commonly eaten bean is the peruano (peh-roo-AH-noh), an oval, yellow bean that cooks to a pale beige color with a creamy consistency.  I like frijoles de la olla (freshly cooked beans, straight from the pot) served with a big spoonful of salsa fresca (chopped tomato, minced onion and chile serrano, salt, and roughly chopped cilantro).  I often steam white rice, fill a bowl with it, add frijoles de la olla, salsa fresca, and crumble cotija cheese and call it comida (main meal of the day).

Cristina Potters Refried Beans 2

For breakfast, I often prepare frijoles refritos (refried beans).  Served with scrambled eggs, sliced Mexican avocado, and a stack of hot tortillas, beans are a great way to start the morning.

Here’s some fun bean trivia: frijoles refritos doesn’t really mean ‘refried’ beans. Mexican Spanish often uses the prefix ‘re-‘ to describe something exceptional.  ‘Rebueno’ means ‘really, really good’.  ‘Refrito’ means–you guessed it–well-fried.

Frijoles de la olla are very easy to cook and the fresh-cooked flavor is a million times better than canned beans! In my kitchen I prepare about a pound of dried beans at a time.  After cooking, I serve some as frijoles de la olla, prepare some as refried beans, and freeze the rest in plastic sandwich bags.  The cooked beans and their pot liquid freeze very well.

To make frijoles de la olla, the traditional cooking method I use has no onions, no garlic, no salt, and no other seasonings–just water and dried beans. First, pick carefully through your beans.  Put the cleaned beans in a strainer and wash well under running water.  Now, to soak or not to soak?  I have tried both soaking and not soaking and have noticed that the cooking time is about the same either way. I never soak my beans.  My olla de barro (clay bean pot) holds about a half kilo of frijol plus enough water to cook them.  If you don’t have an olla de barro, a heavy metal soup pot will work almost as well.  After the beans are in the pot, add 6 to 8 cups of cold water.

Over a high flame, bring the pot of beans to a rolling boil.  Turn the flame to a medium simmer and cover the pot.  Allow the beans to cook for about an hour and check the water level.  If you need to add more water, be sure it is boiling before you pour it into the bean pot; adding cold water can cause the beans to toughen.  Continue to cook the beans until, when you bite into one, it is soft and creamy.  The pot liquid will thicken slightly.

Cristina Potters Refried Beans 3(Frijoles de la Olla, already cooked over the fried chilies, ready to be turned into refried beans)

Now’s the time to salt your beans–after cooking, but while the beans are still hot. I use Espuma del Mar (Mexican sea salt from the state of Colima) for its wonderful sweetly salty flavor, but any salt will do.  Add a little less salt than you think is correct–you can always add more later, and you don’t want to over salt your beans.

If you live in the United States or Canada, you’ll want to order the fabulous heritage dried beans sold by Rancho Gordo.  Its owner, my friend Steve Sando, has nearly single-handedly brought delicious old-style beans to new popularity in home and restaurant kitchens.  If you’ve tasted ordinary beans and said, “So what?”, try Rancho Gordo beans for a huge WOW! of an eye opener.

Following is a recipe for turning these frijoles de la olla into refried beans.

Cristina Potters Refried Beans 4 (Refried beans ready to eat)

Christina Potters Refried Beans Main
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4.20 from 5 votes

Refried Beans

I’d like to offer my personal recipes for frijoles refritos and frijoles de la olla. The following recipe for refried beans is not only simple and delicious; it converts people who turn up their noses at ordinary refried beans into folks who insist on another helping!
Prep Time2 minutes
Cook Time10 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: beans, Peruvian beans, pinto beans, refried beans, serrano chiles
Servings: 6 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 3 cups recently cooked frijoles peruanos de la olla
  • 1 or 2 chiles serranos depending on your heat tolerance
  • 1 or 2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil -- preferably lard and definitely NOT olive oil
  • Bean cooking liquid
  • Sea salt to taste

Instructions

  • Melt the lard in an 8-inch skillet. Split the chile(s) from the tip almost to the stem and add to the melted lard. Saute over a medium flame until the chile is dark brown, almost black. Allow the lard or oil and chile to cool a bit before the next step.
  • Now add the beans and a little of the bean liquid. When the beans begin to simmer, mash them and the chile with a potato or bean masher until they are smooth. Add more liquid if necessary to give the beans the consistency you prefer. Add sea salt to taste, stir well, and serve.

Notes

Frijoles Refritos

Beachside coconut flan

I do love the change of seasons in the Eastern United States. The fall leaves change to different shades and make fluffy mountains where the boys jump a thousand times in a single day. I also like the smell of winter winds waiting around the corner as our home heating starts to warm up. And I have so much fun getting all of us coats and hats and gloves, something I never did growing up.

But I do miss my piece of beachside coconut flan. The one I used to have in Acapulco, many Decembers ago, growing up. My favorite was from Pipo’s, a restaurant in “la Costera”, an old neighborhood along the beach. It has a creamy and smooth layer on top that blends into a bottom layer of softened and nicely chewy coconut. I have tried a couple versions and the best one is also the simplest one.

First, make homemade caramel. Some cooks like to make caramel mixing sugar with lime juice or water, I prefer the most straightforward way: plain sugar over low-medium heat. Simply pour sugar onto a saucepan and gently tilt the pan, here and there, as the sugar starts to melt.

Coconut Flan 1

You need to be a bit patient, as the caramel is jealous: if you leave it unattended it will burn and taste bitter.

Coconut Flan 2

As it starts to melt it will look like this… glorious mountain shapes of sugar starting to caramelize… Once it becomes liquid you have choices. The lighter the color of the caramel, the mellower the taste. If you let it brown it will gain a deeper flavor, more nutty and strong. However, if you let it brown too long, it may taste bitter. And that can happen fast.

Coconut Flan 3

This is the color I like. It is rich, with a lot of personality and makes a great combination with the sweet and mellow flan. Coconut Flan 4

Quickly pour it into individual molds or round tube pan, it does harden fast.

Now it’s time to make the flan. As much as you had to be patient and careful with the caramel (after you make it a couple times it becomes an easy task) making the flan requires a minute of mixing a couple things in the blender.

Coconut Flan 5

The secret to this coconut flan is to use unsweetened dried shredded coconut, now found in many stores like Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s. It sounds redundant, but sweetened coconut makes it too sweet and gives the flan a shallow taste.

Pour a can of sweetened condensed milk, a cup of water, a couple eggs and the coconut in the blender. Puree until smooth and pour over the hardened caramel. Coconut Flan 6

Place it in a hot water bath, a baking dish filled with hot water up to at least half the height of the molds, and place it in the oven, about 35 minutes later, you have your flan.

Coconut Flan 7

Now, everyone has their favorite flan. As far as I have tried there’s orange, chocolate, rum, cajeta (similar to dulce de leche), rompope (eggnog), pine nut, pecan, and ancient style.

As the Fall and Winter colors and sounds make their way into your home this year, you may want to try a piece of beachside flan. It will bring you a couple steps closer to the beach, the ocean breeze, nice warm comfort, and why not, fresh coconut from those shady palm trees.

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5 from 6 votes

Beachside coconut flan

But I do miss my piece of beachside coconut flan. The one I used to have in Acapulco, many Decembers ago, growing up. My favorite was from Pipo’s, a restaurant in “la Costera”, an old neighborhood along the beach. It has a creamy and smooth layer on top that blends into a bottom layer of softened and nicely chewy coconut. I have tried a couple versions and the best one is also the simplest one.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time35 minutes
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Caramel, coconut, flan, pati's mexican table, Sweetened Condensed Milk
Servings: 8 to 10 flans
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cup sweetened condensed milk
  • 1 cup water
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 1/3 cups unsweetened dried and shredded coconut
  • Optional garnishes slices of fruits, or if you want to go wild, drizzle chocolate syrup or whipped cream on top

Instructions

  • In a saucepan heat sugar over medium-low heat until it achieves caramel consistency. You may need to tilt the saucepan as the sugar starts to dissolve. Once it has melted, decide how dark/strong you want the caramel. The lighter the color, the lighter the flavor. But be careful because if it gets too dark it can burn and taste bitter. Remove from the heat and pour onto the bottom of a flan/round tube mold or into 10 individual custard cups. Do so quickly, since caramel hardens fast.
  • Preheat oven to 360 degrees.
  • Place sweetened condensed milk, 1 cup water, eggs and coconut in the blender and puree the mixture for 1 minute or so. Pour mixture on top of the hardened caramel in the mold or individual molds. Place the molds in an already hot water bath, a baking dish already filled with hot water which should come up to at least half the height of the molds, into the oven.
  • Remove once flan has set and top has achieved a nice golden to brown tan, about 35 to 40 minutes. Let them cool and serve or cover and refrigerate. They will keep in the refrigerator for a week.
  • To unmold, remove them from the refrigerator at least 10 minutes before serving, so the caramel will soften. Run the tip of a knife around the flan and turn onto a plate. Drizzle the caramel on top. Serve it with fresh fruit of your liking, or go wild and add chocolate syrup or whipped cream on top.

Notes

Flan de Coco Playero

Piloncillo

Piloncillo is the rawest form of sugar cane. The same thing as cane juice but in a solid form. It typically comes in a block, with the shape of a cone, square or round.

It can be substituted for brown sugar. However, the flavor of piloncillo is more rustic. Reminds me of foods eaten in small villages or pueblos, it is homey. It adds that extra “something,” be it depth, color, aroma, that is hard to define but amazing to taste.

It can be grated or dissolved in hot or simmering liquid.

Sweet potatoes with orange-piloncillo syrup and chile de árbol

Our friends Tamara and Sean are crazy foodies and fans of the richness and versatility of chilies. So after receiving the invitation to join them next week for their Thanksgiving feast, I started playing with options on what to bring; with chilies of course.

This is one of the things I came up with and can’t wait for them to try:  creamy and soft sweet potatoes bathed in a buttery orange-piloncillo syrup sprinkled, with toasted chile de arbol. How good are they? That fork in the picture I just shot accounts for my third consecutive serving today. How easy are they to make? Read below…

sweet potatoes
I am fond of sweet potatoes. Called camotes in Mexico, and eaten since Pre-Hispanic times, they tend to be eaten with a sweet spin. The most popular versions are either steamed and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk, honey or syrup as the plantains I recently posted; or cooked into a sweetened paste, molded, caramelized and turned into addictive candies.

However, they are also cooked in many other ways. Through my travels and research I have tasted them in soups, puddings, warm salads, purees and even flans. Yet one of my favorite versions is how my mother makes them.

syrup ingredients for sweet potatoes with chile de arbol

She boils, peels and slices them. Then she adds chunks of butter, brown sugar or piloncillo, chile de arbol and into the oven they go. I started from her idea, but opted to make a syrup with what you see in the photo above: butter, brown sugar or shredded piloncillo, orange and lime juice for an extra layer of flavor.

Its simple: just place those ingredients in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Once the butter dissolves, let the mix turn into a light syrup, which takes about 4 minutes of gentle simmer. This syrup is so good, it could be drank out of a cup…

Instead of drinking it all…  you can drizzle most of it over the sliced sweet potatoes in a buttered baking dish. For an incredibly earthy, deep and spicy kick, sprinkle some toasted and chopped chile de arbol on top.

If you are not familiar with the chile de arbol, this is what they look like.

chiles de arbol

Chile de arbol have become widely available outside of Mexico. They are thin, elongated, have a beautiful red/orange color, and are spicy with a rich, deep flavor.

To use them for this dish just remove the stems, make a slit down their sides and take the seeds off. See how I am opening them up? The seeds just come right off. It takes a minute.

opening chile de arbol

In an already hot dry skillet or comal set over medium-low heat (takes 3 to 4 minutes to heat up), toast the chilies for about 20 to 30 seconds on each side. Their inner skin will become opaque, they will let some aroma loose, and their outside skin will gain a toasty dark brown tan. Be careful not to let them burn all over.

They should look similar to this…

toasted chiles de arbol

Then, just give them a friendly chop. And after you do, wash your hands with soap and water… you don’t want to rub your eyes with chile de arbol. If you made more than you need, store them in a closed bag or container. They will keep forever.

Once you drizzle the syrup and sprinkle the chopped chile de arbol, add a bit of salt on top. Place in a 425 degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes. And you are set.

sweet potatoes with chile de arbole in baking dish

Ok, that’s before my fork went in!  These are sweet potatoes with a delicious citrusy sweet spin and a flavorful spicy kick.

By boiling the sweet potatoes before placing them in the oven, you are getting a creamy and soft texture that can’t be achieved by just roasting them in the oven. The quick finish in the oven, thickens the syrup further as it gives the already soft sweet potatoes a nicer outer finish. It is a great combination. I might as well finish what’s on the plate…

Pati Jinich sweet potatoes with chile de arbol
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4.80 from 5 votes

Sweet potatoes with orange-piloncillo syrup and chile de árbol

This is one of the things I came up with and can’t wait for them to try:  creamy and soft sweet potatoes bathed in a buttery orange-piloncillo syrup sprinkled, with toasted chile de arbol. How good are they? That fork in the picture I just shot accounts for my third consecutive serving today. How easy are they to make? Read below…
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time45 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: chiles de arbol, lime, orange juice, piloncillo, Potato, Recipe, sweet potato, Vegetarian
Servings: 4 to 6 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 3 pounds sweet potatoes
  • 1/2 cup orange juice preferably fresh
  • 2 tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice
  • 3/4 cup grated piloncillo or brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup 2 ounces unsalted butter
  • 4 to 6 chiles de arbol stems and seeds removed, toasted and chopped
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt more or less to taste

Instructions

  • Rinse and scrub the sweet potatoes. Place them in a large pot, cover them with water, over medium heat. Once it comes to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover the pot, and let it simmer for about 25 to 35 minutes. You will know they are ready, just like with boiling potatoes, when the tip of a knife can easily go through. Drain and let cool.
  • Remove the stems from the chile de arbol, make a slit down their sides and take out the seeds. On a preheated comal or dry skillet over medium-low heat, toast the chiles for about 20 to 30 seconds per side. Their inner skin will have become opaque and the outer skin will achieve a brown tan. Be careful to not let them burn.
  • To make the syrup, place the butter, piloncillo or brown sugar, orange and lime juice in a sauce pan over medium-low heat. Once the butter dissolves, let it simmer 4 to 5 minutes until it gains a light syrupy consistency.
  • Preheat the oven to 425 degrees and butter a baking dish (I use a 9" x 13").
  • Once the sweet potatoes have cooled, peel and slice them into about 1/2 to 1 inch rounds. Layer them in rows, pour the syrup on top, sprinkle the toasted and chopped chile de arbol and sprinkle some salt on top. Place the dish in the oven and bake anywhere from 15 to 20 minutes. Halfway through, spoon some of the syrup on top of the sweet potatoes. Bake them until the syrup has thickened to your liking and they have achieved a glazed crust. They are specially delicious if eaten while still hot.

Notes

Camote con Jarabe de Piloncillo y Chile de Arbol

Chile de Arbol

Chile de Arbol is a very spicy, yet incredibly flavorful dried chile. It is small, but elongated and thin. It has a deep and shinny orange-red color and it is used in many, many ways. It is often crushed for very spicy table salsas, though it is also used to add flavor and a bit of heat if not opened when cooking, amongst others.

Continue reading “Chile de Arbol”

Foods of Michoacan are Forever

You know how some people become attached to a certain dish? They try it somewhere once and then want to go back to eat it again and again, or they make it at home repeatedly in an until-death-do-us-part kind of vow? Well, I am one of those people, and I have made that vow with quite a few dishes from the Mexican state of Michoacan. It surprises me how Michoacan’s cuisine has remained such a well-kept secret. It has a defined personality and a complex layering of delicious flavors like the more popular cuisines from Oaxaca and Puebla, but its dishes seem to be a bit more comforting and use fewer ingredients.

What’s more, some of Michoacan’s basic ingredients, such as pasilla chiles, tomatillos, cotija cheese and fruit pastes, have become readily available in stores outside of Mexico.

My love for Michoacan is inevitably tied to its food, but it goes well beyond its kitchens. The first time I went to Michoacan as a little girl, it had such an impact on me that whenever our family planned a trip, I begged my parents to return there. It wasn’t only the enchanting cobbled streets, the immense wooden doors framed in cantera stone, the aromas of freshly made breads and ground mountain coffee, or the town squares filled with dozens of home-style ice cream carts and sweets stands, all surrounded with colorful balloons and birdseed sellers. There was something more.

I returned a couple of decades later, as a production assistant for a traveling cooking show. It was breathtaking. As we researched for and filmed foods prepared for Day of the Dead — a Mexican holiday celebrated this week — we traveled from town to town, sampling delicate and simple dishes in the markets filled with fresh ingredients and goodies that women brought in baskets and set down on mats on the floor.

In the cities surrounding the Patzcuaro Lake area, we saw the famous fishermen using their immense nets, which seemed to fly off into the sky, before sunrise. We tasted to-die-for fish soups, meat stews, tamales and sweets that cooks prepared for this occasion.

Day of the Dead is one of Mexico’s most meaningful celebrations, and Michoacan is a spectacular place to experience it, partly because of its beauty and cuisine, but also because of the richness and depth of its centuries-old traditions.

The Purepechas, also called Tarascos, who remain the predominant indigenous group of the region, believed since pre-Hispanic times that the dead return once a year to visit those they miss. Centuries of intermarriage between Purepecha, Spanish and Catholic Church traditions and ingredients resulted in an eclectic mix of rituals and exquisite foods.

Last year, a decade after my second trip, I returned to Michoacan to do further research for the culinary program I teach at the Mexican Cultural Institute in Washington, D.C. We brought our three young sons, and I was eager to share with them the things and foods I had been fascinated with on previous trips. Yet as soon as we unpacked, it became clear that there was so much more to taste and learn. I experienced new things along with my boys.

After a stay in Morelia, the colonial capital where we tasted traditional and modern spins of Michoacan cuisine, we spent a sweet time in the small town of Santa Fe de la Laguna among a Purepecha community. Some of the women fed us their traditional foods and invited us into their kitchens to teach us how to make those dishes. They also taught our boys, with so much patience and tranquility, how to work with their traditional black and green clay.

Upon our return, I finally realized what makes the cuisine of Michoacan distinctive: its people. Michoacanos are generous, warm, hospitable and caring. No wonder the state is known as “the soul of Mexico.” And it is a beautiful soul for Mexico to have. The more I cook, the more I am convinced that the food of a place resembles the characteristics of its people. If asked to define in one word the cuisine from Michoacan, I would say “soulful.”

In my until-death-do-us-part vow with the food of Michoacan, I shall keep sharing and cooking what I have learned from its cuisine until I am able to go back to explore and eat some more. What’s more, if I’m given a license to come back from another world for Day of the Dead, I will happily feast on this menu with the people I love.

Article written for and published by National Public Radio’s Kitchen Window.

tarascan soup
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4.45 from 9 votes

Tarascan Pinto Bean and Tomato Soup

Tarascan Soup Pinto Bean and Tomato Soup, from Pati’s Mexican Table Season 7, Episode 12 "Photographic Food Memories"
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time30 minutes
Total Time35 minutes
Course: Soup
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: beans, pati’s mexican table, pinto beans, Recipe, soup, Vegetarian
Servings: 6 to 8 Servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

For soup:

  • 1 pound ripe plum or roma tomatoes
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1 (about 1 ounce) ancho chile, stem and seeds removed
  • 1/2 cup white onion, coarsely chopped
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt divided, or more to taste
  • 3 tablespoons safflower or corn oil
  • 1 pound cooked pinto beans plus 2 cups of their cooking liquid or 2 14-ounce cans cooked pinto beans plus 2 cups water
  • 3 cups chicken broth vegetable broth or water

For garnishes:

  • 1/2 cup Mexican style cream
  • 1 cup crumbled Cotija cheese
  • 1 1/2 cups crumbled tortilla chips or tortilla strips
  • 1 ancho chile stemmed, seeded, diced, deep fried for a few seconds
  • 1 avocado, peeled seeded, meat scooped out and diced, optional

Instructions

  • Place the tomatoes, garlic, and ancho chile in a saucepan. Cover with water, and simmer over medium-high heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until the tomatoes are completely cooked through and ancho chile is rehydrated.
  • Transfer the tomatoes, garlic, and ancho chile to a blender or food processor, along with 1 cup of the cooking liquid, the white onion, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Puree until smooth.
  • Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the pureed tomato mixture and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it darkens in color and thickens in consistency.
  • Meanwhile, rinse your blender or food processor, then add the pinto beans and 2 cups of their cooking liquid (or water, if using canned beans) and puree until smooth.
  • Reduce the heat to medium and stir the bean puree, broth and the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt into the thickened tomato mixture. Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the soup has seasoned and has a creamy consistency. Taste for salt and add more if needed. Turn off the heat, as it thickens quickly.
  • Ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle with a tablespoon of the cream and top with some cheese, a handful of crumbled tortilla chips or tortilla strips, a few fried ancho chile crisps and some diced avocado. You can also place the garnishes in bowls on the table to let your guests decide how much of each garnish they want to add to their bowls.
  • The soup itself may be cooled and stored in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Because this soup thickens a bit as it cools, you may need to add some chicken broth or water to thin it out when you reheat it.

Notes

Sopa Tarasca
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4.80 from 5 votes

Brisket in Pasilla Chile and Tomatillo Sauce

This is by far, the best brisket I’ve ever had. The meat chunks gain a nutty brown crust as they cook, yet as you take a bite they fall apart in your mouth. And the sauce, thick, a bit tart, a bit spicy and wholeheartedly rich, enhances the flavor of the meat. It is a dish with a flavor hard to forget: it has loads of personality.
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time4 hours 15 minutes
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Jewish, Mexican
Keyword: beef, chile, garlic, Jewish Mexican, pasilla, pati’s mexican table, piloncillo, Recipe, tomatillos
Servings: 6 to 8 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 3 pounds trimmed brisket of beef rinsed and cut into about 2-inch chunks (leave some fat on!)
  • 5 garlic cloves peeled
  • 5 peppercorns
  • 2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt divided (plus more to taste)
  • 1 pound tomatillos husks removed and rinsed
  • 3 ounces black or pasilla chiles (may sub for New Mexico chiles) stems and seeds removed
  • 3 tablespoons corn or safflower oil
  • 1/2 cup white onion chopped
  • 1 cup boiling water
  • 2 cups meat cooking liquid
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons grated piloncillo or dark brown sugar
  • Chopped white onion and cilantro leaves optional garnish

Instructions

  • Place meat chunks in a large cooking pot along with 5 garlic cloves, peppercorns and salt. Cover with water, bring to a boil, cover partially and simmer over medium heat for 3 hours, or until meat is very soft. Drain and reserve 2 cups of its cooking liquid.
  • Meanwhile, char or roast the tomatillos on a baking sheet under the broiler, or directly on the comal or dry skillet or grill over medium heat, for about 10 minutes, turning 2 or 3 times. Tomatillos are ready when their skin is blistered and lightly charred, and their flesh is soft, mushy and juicy.
  • Toast chiles on a hot comal or dry skillet over-medium heat for 5 to 10 seconds per side. Chiles will release their aroma and become more pliable, and their inner skin will become a bit opaque. Don’t let them burn.
  • Place toasted chiles and roasted or charred tomatillos in a bowl and cover with 1 cup boiling water and 2 cups of reserved meat cooking liquid (if you don’t have 2 cups, add more water). Let this mixture soak for at least a half-hour and up to 4 hours. Pour the mixture into the blender or food processor, puree until smooth and reserve.
  • Add 3 tablespoons of corn or safflower oil to the same pot in which meat was cooked, and heat over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add cooked meat chunks and brown them, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add the chopped onion, and stir as you continue to brown the meat for another 2 to 3 minutes.
  • Incorporate pureed chile mixture, a teaspoon of salt and the piloncillo or brown sugar. Stir and simmer over medium heat for about 10 more minutes. The meat should be completely tender, yet still in chunks. The sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, but not pasty. Taste for salt and add more if need be. To serve, you can garnish with some raw chopped onion and cilantro leaves.
  • If there is any meat left over, you can cool, store and refrigerate it in a closed contained and then reheat, covered over a low simmer.

Notes

Carne Enchilada
tarascan bean and tomato soup
Print Recipe
5 from 4 votes

Cheesecake with Guava

In Mexico, a favorite dessert is to pair sweet slices of guava or other fruit pastes called ates with savory slices of cheese. Cheesecake with guava paste is a modern take on this combination. We tried it for the first time in the Museo del Dulce — the sweets museum — in Morelia. My adaptation has a thinner layer of guava paste than the museum's, and it is placed between the crunchy bottom and the smooth cream cheese batter, rather than on top. Also, the sweetened sour cream topping reflects a craving of mine, but it seems to make the combination even more irresistible. You can use this recipe as a guideline and see if you want to take the cheesecake in other directions: more guava, less guava, more sour cream or no sour cream.
Prep Time30 minutes
Cook Time35 minutes
Chilling Time4 hours
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Ate De Guayaba, cheesecake, Dessert, guava, guava paste, Guayaba, pay de queso, Recipe
Servings: 10 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

Crust:

  • 1 1/2 cups (6 ounces ground) Maria cookies or vanilla wafers, or graham crackers
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 3 ounces (or 3/4 stick) butter melted

Guava Spread:

  • 11 ounces guava paste or ate de guayaba
  • 5 tablespoons water

Cheese Filling:

  • 1 pound cream cheese
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 3 large eggs
  • 1/4 cup heavy cream

Sour Cream topping:

  • 1 1/2 cups sour cream
  • 1/4 cup sugar

Instructions

Crust:

  • In a big bowl, stir the ground cookies, sugar and melted butter until thoroughly mixed. Butter a 9- to 10-inch springform pan. Turn the cookie mixture into the pan. With your fingers or a small spatula, spread it evenly along the pan. Press gently, making a side rim of 1/2 to 1 inch on the sides. Refrigerate while you make the guava spread, cheese filling and sour cream topping.

Guava Spread:

  • Place guava paste and water in the blender jar or food processor. Process until smooth, and reserve.

Cheese Filling:

  • Place the cream cheese in the bowl of an electric mixer, and beat at medium speed until smooth and foamy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add sugar and vanilla, and continue beating until well mixed. Add eggs, one at a time. You may need to stop the mixer to scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, as the batter may stick to it. Add the heavy cream, and beat until the mixture is all incorporated and smooth. Reserve.

Sour Cream Topping:

  • In a bowl, mix the sour cream and the sugar together.

Assemble Together:

  • Adjust rack of the oven one-third up from the bottom and preheat to 350°F.
  • Remove the pan with the crust from the refrigerator. With a spatula, spread the guava mixture evenly over the crust. Turn out the cheese filling onto the guava layer, and spread gently and evenly.
  • Place the cheesecake in the oven and bake for 35 minutes, or until it is cooked and has a lightly tanned top. Remove from oven and let cool for at least 10 minutes. Then spoon the sweetened sour cream over the cheese filling and place it back in the oven for 10 more minutes.
  • Remove from the oven and let it cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving. It tastes even better if it chills overnight.
  • Before serving, release the sides of the springform pan. Place the cheesecake onto a plate (keeping it on the bottom of the pan), slice and serve.

Notes

Pay De Queso Con Ate De Guayaba

Pasilla Chile

The Pasilla Chile is the dried Chilaca Chile. It is also by far the most harvested and used chile in the state of Michoacan. In some towns you can see some patios covered with mats where hundreds and thousands of Chilacas are being dried in the sun to be turned into Pasillas.

When it is fresh, it is long and shiny with a bright light green color. Once dried and with the name Pasilla, it is very long, slender, dark brown or black, with soft wrinkled skin. It has a rich, earthy and mildly spicy taste with a hint of sweetness. It is used for many things such as table sauces, soups, stews, rubs, marinades and moles.

It goes by different names, in some regions it is called Pasilla and in some Negro, or Black. Some call it Black Pasilla or Pasilla Negro. It can be substituted by the New Mexico dried Chile, thought it does have a different flavor. Not to confuse it with the Ancho Chile, which in some places in the US is called Pasilla as well. So it will be easy to recognize, here are a couple pictures.

But don’t worry, once you cook with a specific kind of Chile you will not mistake it with any other! I am also adding a couple pictures of the Ancho Chile in its entry, so you can distinguish them as well.

Pasilla Chile 2-thumb-510x343-754

A Cake Worthy of its own Celebration

It seems that when it comes to birthdays and cakes, most of us grown ups are like little kids too. So this year, I planned my husbands’ cake with a little help from my three young boys.

The night before, as I tucked them in bed, we talked about making an irresistible I-want-to-jump-into-that-cake kind of cake. It had to be something that could WOW him away and could also feel yummy and soft when they dipped his face in it (yep! that was their plan).

This talk led me, once again, to tell the boys stories about cakes from my childhood. Most of those cakes came from Sanborns’, a chain of stores that sells almost anything you can imagine: books, DVD’s, make-up, electronics, luggage, candies, the best ever chocolate covered raisins, marshmallows and toys. It also has great coffee-shop style restaurants with some of my favorite molletes and enchiladas. Not to forget its perfumeries and pharmacies. It is a serious knock out one-stop-shop. But most importantly, it was, and may still be, one of the most popular places to get a birthday cake.

One of the cakes that left me with a permanent impression went something like this: A couple layers of fluffy and moist vanilla cake, a foamy and soft meringue filling paired with old fashioned strawberry jam and pecans, the same soft meringue layered all over the top, some more pecans and whatever decorations you fancied.

That cake, by itself, made a party happen. It was a creation worthy of its own celebration.

The next morning, we rolled up our sleeves, and jumped in the kitchen ready to make it. The great thing, is that it turned out to be easy and fun for the boys.

First, you make a quick batter in the mixer with butter, sugar, egg yolks, flour, baking powder and a bit of milk. Pour this cake batter, and spread it, over 2 buttered ring form pans layered with a parchment paper base.

Cake with Meringue and Strawberry Jam 1

Rinse the mixer and make a large helping of soft and airy meringue. This just takes two ingredients and less than 5 minutes. Beat the egg whites until they make peaks that can hold their own shape, add sugar and beat one more minute.

Cake with Meringue and Strawberry Jam 2

Layer that soft meringue on top of the 2 pans that already have the uncooked cake batter. It is hard, really hard, not to eat that meringue as you are pouring it onto the pan.

Spread the meringue in whichever shape you want.

Cake with Meringue and Strawberry Jam 3

Chop some pecans and sprinkle them on top of the meringue layer.

Now, both pans, into the oven they go! Bake for 25 minutes at 375 degrees.

Cake with Meringue and Strawberry Jam 4

At this point, the cake is cooked yet moist and the meringue has developed a chewy top, and thick and soft interior.

Add strawberry jam, either homemade or store bought, on top of one of the cakes. You can also add diced strawberries or any kind of berries.

And happy birthday Papi!

A Cake Worthy of Its Own Celebration 8-thumb-510x342-748
Beware: All of these layers make a perfect combination once in your mouth and most people will ask for more than one helping. Though we celebrated my husband’s birthday last week, the cake was so good, that it is worthy of its own celebration.So we are making it again today.

Cake with Meringue and Strawberry Jam 6

Let’s eat!!!

NOTE: We based our take on a recipe from Carmen Titita, one of the leading ladies of the Mexican culinary scene, who herself adapted a recipe from Rosita Murillo from Veracruz, where this cake is just as popular as in Sanborns’. It seems absolutely fascinating to consider how recipes travel from families, to friends, to different countries and receive twists and spins along the way as they move through generations. This is our adapted version.

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5 from 2 votes

Birthday Cake with Meringue and Strawberry Jam

One of the cakes that left me with a permanent impression went something like this: A couple layers of fluffy and moist vanilla cake, a foamy and soft meringue filling paired with old fashioned strawberry jam and pecans, the same soft meringue layered all over the top, some more pecans and whatever decorations you fancied. That cake, by itself, made a party happen. It was a creation worthy of its own celebration.
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time25 minutes
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: cake, Dessert, jam, Meringue, pecans, Recipe
Servings: 12 to 14 slices
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 1/2 sticks 1 1/4 cup unsalted butter at room temperature
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • 10 egg yolks
  • 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 2/3 cup milk
  • 10 egg whites
  • 1 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 cup pecans roughly chopped
  • 1 cup strawberry jam

Instructions

  • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter 2 round spring form pans (size from 9 1/2 to 11"). Place parchment paper on the bottom of each pan.
  • In the bowl of a mixer, beat the butter at medium speed, until soft and creamy. Incorporate sugar and beat until well mixed. Add egg yolks, one by one, beating well after each addition. Reduce the speed to low, add the flour combined with the baking powder in batches, alternating with the milk. Pour half of this batter onto each pan.
  • Rinse the mixer. Beat the egg whites until the peaks can hold their own shape, but aren't stiff. Incorporate sugar, and beat until it is well mixed, for a minute or so. Pour this meringue on top of the cake batter on each pan, and gently smooth it out with a spatula. Sprinkle half of the chopped pecans on top of the meringue. Place the pans in the oven.
  • Bake for 25 minutes, or until the cake is cooked but moist and the meringue has developed a nice tanned crust. Remove from the oven and let them cool.
  • Remove one of the cakes from the pan, discarding the parchment paper, and place on a platter. Spoon the strawberry jam on top. Remove the other cake from the pan, discarding that parchment paper as well, and place on top of the first cake. Enjoy!

Notes

Pastel de Cumpleaños con Merengue y Mermelada de Fresa, Adapted from Carmen Titita, adapted from Rosita Murillo

Zucchini Torte for You and Me (and turns out my mother too)

Each time a vegetable torte is included in the menu of one of my classes, I have noticed a similar trend: tortes have a warm and friendly reception, that turns into a loving embrace once participants make the recipe at home and find out they want to make it again and again.

Not to be confused with the other kind of tortas, (tortes translates to tortas in Spanish…) Mexico’s favorite sandwich made with a crispy bread roll adapted from the baguette; tortes are a cross between a fluffy and moist bread, a savory pudding, and now that I think of it, also a souffle.

Although there are quite a few variations, tortes have a few things in common. For one thing, they are easy to prepare. Next, they are versatile since they can be a side to both dry or saucy entrees, they can become the main dish accompanied by a salad and they can travel solo in grand style. What’s more, and crucial around home, they help eager parents deceive picky eaters who don’t like vegetables that much.

Zucchini Torte 1

(Two kinds of zucchini posing in my backyard)

Tortes swaddle vegetables in a comforting cushion of eggs (sometimes beaten separately), one or another kind of flour, at times milk, cream or cheese and a nice dose of sugar, some salt, and depending on the spin, other spices. Despite the variations, the signature of each torte is typically given by the vegetable that predominates. The most common ones that come to mind are pea, carrot, spinach, zucchini and corn. The last two are the ones I repeat the most and since I found such beautiful zucchini in the market yesterday, that’s what is going in the mixer today.

Zucchini Torte 2(The zucchini mostly found in Mexican markets, calabacita italiana, sometimes called Pipian in Latin stores throughout the US.)

Though in Mexico the zucchini that is mostly used is the calabacita italiana, which translates to italian zucchini, the one I find most often in the US is the larger, dark green zucchini. The first is smaller, a bit rounder, with a lighter green color speckled with cream. The second tends to be longer and with a deeper, darker and more uniform green color. Both work just as well, but the first tends to be a bit milder and sweeter than the latter.

There are countless ways in which calabacitas, or different kinds of zucchinis, are used. It may just be one of the most used vegetables in Mexican cooking. And all of its parts are used: the vegetable, the shoots (especially in tasty soups) and the seeds.

grating(While my youngest son loves to mash away with the molcajete, or anything else, my oldest has graduated to use the grater, which he does with worldly pride.)

Making this torte is as simple as can be: Grate and drain the zucchini.

grated zucchini
(Grated and drained zucchini. You can use a cheese cloth or a strainer and squeeze the juice out with your hands or a spoon)

Then mix it with the already beaten butter, eggs, a mix of rice flour, baking soda, baking powder, pinch of salt and sugar.

Then, into the oven, and that’s it.
zucchini torte mix
(There you go, a dangerous shot from an unexperienced photographer to give you that close up…)zucchini torte
(The zucchini bread before adding the powdered sugar, my preferred topping.)
I have been making this torte for quite some time now. The original recipe comes from Diana Kennedy’s The Art of Mexican Cooking, but it has gone through some adaptations over time.

And from what I can tell, it is about to go through even more: I was nicely surprised last week when I brought it to Ilana’s dinner. As she asked for details on it, she screamed out loud: Its gluten free! Thanks to the rice flour, which also gives the torte such a welcome grainy texture. So I called my mother to say I had accidentally found something else she can make, as she eats gluten free. As I described it, she decided it would be irresistible with grated Mexican Manchego, a cheese similar to Monterey Jack, on top. Turns out, it makes for a deliciously tanned, crispy cheesy top. Who can say no to that?

Though Diana Kennedy likes to eat it with a spoonful of creme fraiche seasoned with salt and pepper on top, I prefer to eat it with powdered sugar. But please, go ahead and choose what you are in the mood for…

Zucchini Torte main
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4.80 from 5 votes

Zucchini Torte

Each time a vegetable torte is included in the menu of one of my classes, I have noticed a similar trend: tortes have a warm and friendly reception, that turns into a loving embrace once participants make the recipe at home and find out they want to make it again and again. Not to be confused with the other kind of tortas, (tortes translates to tortas in Spanish…) Mexico’s favorite sandwich made with a crispy bread roll adapted from the baguette; tortes are a cross between a fluffy and moist bread, a savory pudding, and now that I think of it, also a souffle.
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time40 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: mexican crema, pati's mexican table, Recipe, rice flour, Torta, Vegetarian, Zucchini
Servings: 10 to 12 people
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 pound zucchini ends trimmed, grated and strained, about 4 cups
  • 1/4 pound plus 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 3 eggs at room temperature
  • 1 1/2 cup rice flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • Pinch Kosher or sea salt
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • Powdered sugar optional
  • Creme fraiche or Mexican style cream seasoned with salt and pepper, optional

Instructions

  • Butter a 9x12 baking pan. Heat the oven to 350 degrees and place the rack in the middle of the oven.
  • Trim the ends off the zucchini and grate. Place in a colander and strain the juice either pushing with your hands or the back of a spoon, set aside.
  • In a bowl combine the rice flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt.
  • In a mixer, beat the butter at medium high speed for a couple minutes until creamy. Reduce the speed to low and incorporate the eggs one by one. After each egg add about 1/3 of the flour mixture, keep beating until thoroughly mixed. Lastly, add the strained zucchini and the sugar. Beat for another minute until the batter is well mixed and pour onto greased baking dish.
  • Place into the oven and bake for 40 minutes or until torte starts to show a nice golden tan and a toothpick comes out a bit moist but not wet. Remove from the oven, cut in squares and serve.
  • It can be eaten with sprinkled powdered sugar on top for a nice sweet spin, or with spoonfuls of creme fraiche or Mexican style cream seasoned with salt and pepper. Can be eaten hot, warm or cold. If there is any left, it can be kept covered outside of the refrigerator for a couple days.

Notes

Torta de Calabacitas

Dreaming of Julio’s Albóndigas with Chipotle and Mint

I have been humbled, time and again, by how one never stops learning from other cooks in the kitchen. That has especially been the case with my cooking team at the Mexican Cultural Institute. We are all from different parts of Mexico, with our peculiar twists and spins, influences and very strong opinions, which we love to scream out loud when trying to make what we serve at each event be the best it can possibly be. Though we get a bit stressed when cooking for kitchen outsiders, we really let loose when making lunch for ourselves. We take turns and last week Julio, a former Mexican taquerí­a cook, made his albóndigas. I had been dying to try them since not only he, but his aunt Maricruz, had been raving about them for over two years. “De veras, de veritas Pati” (Maricruz said, which means really, REALLY) “he makes the most delicious albóndigas of them all.”

There are multiple versions of just about any dish in the world. I am always amazed each time I test and play around with a single dish, at the many directions it can be driven to. That said, we have a family albóndigas version at home, which my boys eat happily at least a couple times a month.

As I watched Julio prepare his albóndigas, I asked him about things I was biased against for the dish, like the use of rice and mint.  Well, humbled again I as! As it is said, the devil is in the details, it’s a matter of how these ingredients are used.  Each thing that makes these albóndigas work so well, does so for a reason. I liked the so, that we will be making Julio’s meatballs at home now too.  My boys noticed the difference in such a good way: “There is something different Mami”, they were telling each other, as they cleaned their plates up. Here is a step by step guide on how to make this easy and perfect dish for the Fall.

onion, tomatoes, and garlic
Ripe Roma tomatoes, a couple garlic cloves and a thick slice of white onion to prepare the base for tomato broth.

First of all, the tomato broth where the albóndigas are cooked in uses not just a couple of tomatoes, but a couple pounds. Though in Mexican cooking we usually use Roma (called Guaje) tomatoes for sauces and salsas rather than Round tomatoes, I would recommend using the freshest and ripest you can find, or let them mature outside the refrigerator for a couple days. As the Fall sets in, you can substitute the fresh tomatoes with a brand you like of simple tomato puree.

chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
Chipotle chiles in adobo sauce give the broth a smoky, sweet and rich depth

Once the tomatoes are simmered in water for about 10 minutes, they are placed in the blender with a couple garlic cloves, a thick slice of raw onion and a nice healthy dose of Chipotle chiles in Adobo Sauce. If you can take more heat, drop in a whole Chipotle chile in adobo as well. But remember, you can always add more heat, but it is much more challenging to tone it down once it’s in the mix. So you may want to start with a tablespoon of sauce, and as the broth cooks on, taste to see if you can take a bit more heat. If you are a Chipotle addict, like me, no need to take precautions.After this tomato broth is cooked and seasoned, you can add some chicken broth.

mint and garlic in a molcajete
The mint and garlic play subtly with the tomato and the Chipotle adding both fragrance and welcomed layers of flavor.

Up to this point, all is familiar to me. Julio’s spin though, mashes a couple garlic cloves with 5 or 6 fresh mint leaves in a molcajete and tejolote, the Mexican version of a mortar and pestle. You can use the former or the latter, and if you don’t have either, just mince them finely with a knife. The way the mint plays with the tomato and the chipotle in the dish is subtle, yet quite spectacular.

mint and garlic mashed in a molcajete
Quickly mashed garlic and fresh mint leaves.

It takes no more than 10 seconds to mash it all up. And if you have a molcajete or want to get one, this is a great way to start seasoning it or to season it further.

juju mashing mint and garlic in the molcajete
My 3 year old sous chef, or as my late grandfather would say, my bandido, mashing away.

Since mashing is an activity loved by just about everyone around here, we ended up adding a bit more of this seasoning when we made the dish at home.

the mixture for the albondigas
Ground turkey breast, white rice cooked al dente, mashed mint and garlic, eggs, kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Julio used ground turkey breast, which is what we had at hand. I love to use turkey to make albóndigas, as it makes them lighter and leaner while still very flavorful. You can also use ground chicken, beef, or your preferred combination of meats: veal, beef and pork. This latter one, is my mother’s take. It is pretty tasty too. Julio typically makes them with a mix of beef and pork, but he was unexpectedly more than happy with the results from the turkey.The last of Julio’s spins, that I was skeptic about, was the addition of rice to bind the meat and give the albóndigas nice texture. Turns out, it depends on how you use the rice. Other versions I had tried before with rice, add it completely raw. Julio, quickly cooks the rice in water for 6 to 8 minutes until it is barely cooked through or al dente. So when you add it to the mixture, it finishes cooking as the meatballs cook in the broth and it bonds beautifully together making them fluffy, soft and with such a bite-able consistency.

A plate, ready for you to jump into, with ripe Mexican avocados, tasty with corn tortillas and cooked beans too.

So finally, here goes the recipe for you to print out! My guess is that you will also be pleasantly surprised by what mint and garlic do to the already smashing combination of tomato and chipotle. If you try them, let me know!

Julio's albondigas with mint and chipotle
Print Recipe
5 from 6 votes

Julio’s Albóndigas with Chipotle and Mint

As I watched Julio prepare his albóndigas, I asked him about things I was biased against for the dish, like the use of rice and mint. Well… humbled again I was! As it is said, the devil is in the details, it’s a matter of how these ingredients are used. Each thing that makes these albóndigas work so well, does so for a reason. I liked them so, that we will be making Julio’s meatballs at home now too. My boys noticed the difference in such a good way: “there is something different Mami” they were telling each other, as they cleaned their plates up. Here is a step by step guide on how to make this easy and perfect dish for the Fall.
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time45 minutes
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Albondigas, chicken broth, chipotles in adobo, meatballs, mint, onion, Recipe, rice, Tomatoes, turkey
Servings: 8 to 10 people
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1/3 cup long or extra long grain white rice
  • 2 cups water
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 5 to 8 mint leaves
  • 1 1/2 pounds ground turkey chicken breast or a combination of beef, veal and pork
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt or more to taste
  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper freshly ground, or more to taste
  • 2 pounds ripe tomatoes
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 3 tablespoons white onion roughly chopped (or a slice to your liking)
  • 1 to 2 tablespoons of sauce from chipotle chiles in adobo or to taste
  • 1 chipotle chile in adobo seeded, optional
  • 2 tablespoons safflower corn or vegetable oil
  • 1 cup chicken broth
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or to taste

Instructions

  • In a small sauce pan place the rice and cover with 2 cups hot water. Simmer over medium high heat for 6 to 8 minutes, until rice is cooked al dente but not mushy. Drain and let cool.
  • In a molcajete, mash the mint leaves and 2 garlic cloves with the tejolote until pureed. Alternatively you can use a mortar and pestle or you can simply mince them together.
  • In a large mixing bowl, combine the ground meat of your choice, the raw eggs, the cooled and drained rice, the mashed or minced garlic cloves with the mint, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper. Mix thoroughly, with your hands or spatula.
  • In a pot, place the tomatoes and cover with water. Simmer over medium high heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until cooked through and mushy. Add the cooked tomatoes along with 1/4 cup of their cooking liquid, 2 garlic cloves, white onion, the sauce from the chipotles in adobo and if desired the chile chipotle in adobo in the blender and puree until smooth.
  • Pour 2 tablespoons of oil to a large deep pot and place over medium high heat. Once oil is hot, incorporate the pureed tomato mix. Let it simmer anywhere from 6 to 8 minutes, or until it has changed its color to a deeper red, thickened in consistency and lost its raw flavor. Add chicken broth and 1/2 teaspoon salt and reduce heat to medium low.
  • Along the side of the pot with the simmering tomato broth, place a small mixing bowl with about a cup of water as well as the mixing bowl with the albóndiga mix. Start to make the albondigas, one by one, anywhere from 1 to 2" in width and place them gently in the simmering liquid. Wet your hands in the water before you start and after you make a couple of albóndigas so they are easier to shape and the the mix doesn't stick to your hands.
  • Once you have shaped all the albóndigas, cover the pot and let them simmer over medium low heat for 20 minutes. If you want the tomato broth to thicken a bit more, uncover the pot and let it simmer for 5 to 8 more minutes.
  • Serve hot with a side of freshly sliced avocado, some warm corn tortillas and if desired, frijoles de olla, or cooked beans.

OK… Chiles en Nogada, at last!

During the years I’ve been teaching at the Mexican Cultural Institute I’ve been hesitant to demonstrate and serve Chiles en Nogada. There are many reasons…

First, one of my goals has been to open a window into the world of Mexican cooking in an accessible way. I’ve introduced basic ingredients and dishes along with bits of their history, fun facts, cooking methods and new spins, so people can become familiar with this cuisine and feel empowered to play with its basics in their own kitchens.

No sense in teaching how to make something incredibly complex with tons of new ingredients, which can be quite overwhelming, right?

Chiles in Nogada are laborious. They use many ingredients, such as Poblano chiles, plantains, and piloncillo, that require a proper introduction by themselves or in a simpler dish.

piloncillo for chiles en nogada
Piloncillo in a disk, a cone and shredded. Also called panela, can be substituted with dark brown sugar.

Also, Chiles in Nogada look strange. If you are not familiar with them, you see a large green chile overstuffed with an odd looking filling, covered in a pale looking sauce and pomegranate seeds on top. What’s more, they are served lukewarm, which is unexpected.

Let me add more. Since they are so rich and complex, they are typically served on their own. They don’t like the company of much more than white rice or a freshly favored water….

All this said… I am making them for my next class!! Let me tell you how this came to be.

To start with, the topic is Celebrating Independence Day with Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

Chiles in Nogada are the quintessential dish eaten throughout the country on this day, and for the whole month of September. It is is a symbol, although there are many versions for how they came to be  (ladies in waiting celebrating a military victory, young nuns welcoming a famous presidents, and a people’s way of celebrating the seasons’ bounty) they all agree it was created with the colors of the Mexican flag in mind: green chile, white walnut sauce and red pomegranate.

Other years, I had gotten away with making other dishes prepared for this holiday that aren’t so labor intensive and just as good. However, the second part of the topic made it harder. Frida and Diego, one of Mexico’s most iconic figures who embody Mexicanidad and they ate Chiles in Nogada during this holiday. And believe me, I thoroughly researched, trying to find other things they also ate then!!

chiles en nogada filling
Moist filling of meat seasoned with garlic, onion, tomatoes, fruits, nuts, olives and spices…

The last straw came when Humberto (coordinator at the Institute) sent me the proof for the invite for the classes. The cover? Chiles en Nogada. I wasn’t going to change something that had hours of work involved already. And yes, Chiles en Nogada are such a staple. And…OK! If they are in the cover, I have to make them.

So with the fear of not wanting to scare away our guests with such complex dish on the back of my mind, I set on a quest to find the most delicious recipe. Remembering how every year I, along with millions of Mexicans and Mexican food aficionados, await for September to be able to eat this deliciously extravagant dish, I had to find the best version to share.

I began by making the version I grew up eating made by my nana, who gave me detailed instructions over the phone. Then I tried my mothers’ sophisticated take. Then I compared the two, and even mixed things of one into the other (oh sacrilege! the eternal culinary competition of my memories). Then I made Guadalupe Rivera’s version (Diego Rivera’s daughter), followed by Diana Kennedy’s… and any other I could find. Misery! I could not get the exquisite result I remembered savoring time and again.

Frustrated, as she saw me, Alejandra de la Paz (Director of the Mexican Cultural Institute) contacted Don Luis Bello Morin, director at the Restaurant of Palacio Nacional de las Bellas Artes in Mexico City. It took no more than a couple hours for him to respond with a recipe which included possible substitutions for hard to find ingredients and a detailed guide to make them. His instructions were so precise, that it was like having a co-pilot throughout the ride: he described the minutes, the smells, the sounds and textures to be found through his tested road to make the best ever Chiles en Nogada I have ever tried.

Not only was he so generous to share his recipe, but the results went beyond my expectations.  Since he loves to share recipes so that dishes such as this will not be lost, here is his adapted recipe (since the one he sent is for an industrial quantity). Thank you Don Luis!

As for my hesitations: I can’t wait to share this recipe and all the stories I’ve gathered for next class. In hindsight, I have been so pleasantly surprised with the eagerness of participants to eat and cook many more things than I would have expected. Of course, Chiles en Nogada are at the end of labor intensive spectrum, but they are so worth it.

Now, if you feel like making this recipe, let me know how it turned out. If you don’t and really want to try it, come to my next class!

chiles en nogada
Print Recipe
4.67 from 6 votes

Chiles en Nogada

Chiles in Nogada are laborious. They use many ingredients, such as Poblano chiles, plantains, and piloncillo, that require a proper introduction by themselves or in a simpler dish. Also, Chiles in Nogada look strange. If you are not familiar with them, you see a large green chile overstuffed with an odd looking filling, covered in a pale looking sauce and pomegranate seeds on top. What’s more, they are served lukewarm, which is unexpected.
Prep Time2 hours 30 minutes
Cook Time50 minutes
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: almonds, apple, ceylon, chile, cinnamon, garlic, olives, onion, peaches, pear, pecans, piloncillo, pine nuts, Plantains, poblanos, pomegranate, pork, raisins, Sherry, Tomatoes, walnut, walnuts
Servings: 10 chiles en nogada
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

For the chiles:

  • 10 chiles poblanos
  • 6 cups water
  • 5 tablespoons shredded or chopped piloncillo or brown sugar

For the meat:

  • 2 pounds pork shoulder butt, leg or ribs or a combination of meats such as veal and beef, deboned and cut into chunks
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1/4 white onion
  • 1 carrot peeled, cut into two pieces
  • 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme or a couple fresh thyme sprigs
  • 5 black peppercorns
  • 1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt

For the filling:

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup white onion chopped
  • 1 pound ripe tomatoes pureed, or about 2 cups tomato puree
  • All the cooked meat finely chopped
  • 2 cups meat cooking broth
  • 1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
  • 3 ounces candied pineapple chopped
  • 1 cup ripe plantain peeled and diced, about 1 1/4
  • 1 diced Bartlett pear about 1 1/4 cup
  • 1 diced Golden Delicious apple about 1 1/4 cup
  • 1 large yellow peach mature but firm, diced, about 1 1/4 cup
  • Pinch of cumin
  • Pinch of ground cloves or 4 to 5 whole cloves seeds smashed and stems discarded
  • 1 ceylon or true cinnamon stick
  • 1/4 cup blonde raisins
  • 1/4 cup silvered almonds lightly toasted
  • 1/4 cup pinenuts lightly toasted
  • 1/4 cup chopped manzanilla olives

For walnut or pecan sauce:

  • 1 1/2 cup freshly peeled walnuts if not fresh DON'T use packaged, use pecans
  • 2 1/2 cups heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup milk more or less to taste
  • 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar or more to taste
  • Pinch kosher or coarse sea salt or to taste
  • Pinch of ground white pepper
  • 1 tablespoon Dry Sherry or more to taste

For the garnishes:

  • 1 cup pomegranate seeds
  • 1/4 chopped parsley optional

Instructions

To prepare the chiles:

  • Rinse and char chiles. To char, you can either place them on a baking sheet or pan under the broiler, directly on the grill, hot comal or directly on an open fire flame. In any case, turn every 2 to 3 minutes until they are charred and blistered but not burnt. Place them, while very hot, in a plastic bag. Close bag tightly and cover with a kitchen towel. Let them sweat for 10 to 20 minutes.
  • Take them out one by one, and peel off the skin in the sink. As you do so, lightly rinse the chile with water. With a knife, make a slit down one side to take out and discard the seeds and membrane. Treat the flesh carefully so it will not tear and keep the stem on. Place them in a container and cover with the water previously simmered with the piloncillo or sugar until well diluted, anywhere from 2 to 24 hours. If it is more than 2 hours, place them in the refrigerator, covered once they have cooled down. Drain and either use or store in the refrigerator. You can prepare them 4 to 5 days ahead up to this point.

To prepare the filling:

  • Place the meat already cut into 3 to 4" chunks on the bottom of a cooking pot along with the garlic cloves, 1/4 white onion, carrot, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns and a teaspoon of salt. Cover with water and place over medium high heat. Simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until meat is cooked through. Turn off the heat and let the meat and broth cool down. remove the meat with a slotted spoon and chop it finely, reserve. Strain the broth into a container, reserve.
  • Heat the olive oil in a large deep saute pan over medium high heat. Add the garlic clove and saute for a minute or until it starts becoming fragrant, but don't let it brown. Add the onion and saute for a couple more minutes, until it becomes translucent and soft and starts gaining some color. Pour in the tomato puree and let it season, stirring often, for about 5 to 7 minutes, until it has deepened its color, thickened its consistency and lost its raw flavor.
  • Incorporate the chopped meat, 2 cups of cooking broth, a teaspoon of salt, mix it all together and let it cook 3 to 4 minutes. Add the candied pineapple, mix with the meat and let it cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Incorporate the chopped plantain, pear, apple, and peach and gently mix it all together, let it cook for a couple minutes. Sprinkle the cumin and ground cloves, making sure you mix those spices well. Place a cinnamon stick in the middle of the pan, cover with a lid, lower the heat to medium and let it cook for about 8 to 10 minutes.
  • Uncover, add the raisins, almonds, pine nuts, green olives, mix well and taste for salt. Add more if need be. Turn off the heat. You can make the filling up to 2 days in advance, cool, cover and refrigerate.

To prepare the sauce:

  • Place all ingredients except the Sherry in the blender and puree until smooth. You can make the sauce a couple days in advance, but bring it to out room temperature before using. Mix the Sherry into the sauce up to 2 hours before serving. Add more to taste, but it shouldn't have a strong alcohol flavor. If it thickened while in the refrigerator, lighten it up with some milk.
  • Finally!!!! To assemble Chiles en Nogada: Place the chiles in a serving platter. Stuff each one with about 1/2 cup filling. Close as best you can. Generously spoon walnut or pecan sauce on top to cover chiles entirely and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and chopped parsley on top.
  • NOTE: Some cooks batter and fry the chiles before adding the sauce. But that version is much heavier and has become less and less popular over time.

Notes

Recipe adapted from Don Luis Bello Morin

Micheladas and Spiced Up Pepitas: You Are Invited!

For Labor Day, our friends Jeannie and Bill invited us to their farm on the Eastern shore. Jeannie said snacks and grown up drinks are welcome. We can’t wait! Since we are going to be a large crowd, meals there are so leisurely and her family likes to try new things, I want to bring an interesting and friendly snack. Since I’ve been experimenting with pumpkin seeds, spiced up pumpkin seeds came to mind. Micheladas are a great pairing for them, especially since this may be one of the last weekends with enough heat for such drink.

Pumpkin seeds, Pepitas in Spanish, are one of the things I used to stuff in my suitcase when visiting Mexico. That’s because they have a mellow, somewhat nutty, almost sweet, barely chewy and nutritious nature, but also because of its multiple uses in Mexican cooking. They are used hulled and un-hulled, toasted or fried, to make salsas, moles, soups and drinks. There is more to Pepitas than being used for an unnoticeable role as a salad topping. So you can imagine my happiness when I began noticing their appearance in not just one, but many grocery stores here in the US.

pepitas 1(Pepitas gently frying in my pan, popping and changing from an olive green to a light brown toasted color)

Pepitas are also a craved for snack for many Mexicans, including myself, when going to the movies. Un-hulled, soaked in salted water, dried and toasted, they are sold in little packages in street stands and bring long-lasting entertainment. It takes a couple hours to go through a small bag, as you place one by one between your teeth to crack the salted shell open and then triumphantly pop the hidden and gentle tasting Pepita into your mouth. You get the pleasure of repeating that again and again throughout the ups and downs of the film.

However, one of my favorite ways to eat Pepitas is hulled, toasted or lightly fried and tossed with ground dried Chile Piquí­n (which can be bought ready to use), salt and sugar. It takes five minutes to make this tasty crunchy nibble. If you make plenty, there is extra to use, not for an unnoticeable role but for a stellar one, on top of salads or fish. The mix of chile, salt and sugar makes them come alive in your mouth.

As for the Michelada, it is the ultimate Mexican way to drink beer. Beer purists: do not fear, you will like what you try. Non-beer drinkers: You will love beer this way.

Classic Michelada is made by pouring beer onto a cold or frozen glass mug with a salted rim (previously rubbed with lime) and freshly squeezed lime juice at the bottom. Some people add ice, some people don’t. For the more playful Michelada, a combination of salty ingredients (such as Maggi and Worcestershire sauces) and spicy ones (Tabasco, Valentina, Cholula, or any spicy sauce) are added before pouring the beer.

There is no agreement as to how to pour the beer. I make mine with lime juice, some dashes of Maggi, Worcestershire and Valentina, and pour the beer up to the salted rim. That way I can taste a bit of the salt around the rim with each sip. Some people pour the beer quickly so it goes over the rim and bubbles up with the salt so that the volcano explodes over their hands, and then they drink the top of the delicious disaster and everything is already mixed up (!)

Here are the super easy recipes for the Pepitas and the Micheladas… why work hard on Labor Day?

Spiced Up Pumpkin Seeds
Print Recipe
4.25 from 4 votes

Spiced Up Pumpkin Seeds

One of my favorite ways to eat Pepitas is hulled, toasted or lightly fried and tossed with ground dried chile piquín, salt and sugar. It takes five minutes to make this tasty crunchy nibble.
Prep Time0 minutes
Cook Time5 minutes
Total Time5 minutes
Course: Appetizer, Snack
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: chile piquín, pepitas, pumpkin seeds, snack, spiced
Servings: 1 1/2 cups of pepitas
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 cup hulled raw pumpkin seeds
  • 1 tablespoon corn, safflower or vegetable oil
  • 1 teaspoon ground chile piquín or ground Mexican chile, more or less to taste
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt more or less to taste
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon sugar more or less to taste

Instructions

  • Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Once it is hot but not smoking add the pumpkin seeds. Saute, stirring often, for about 4 to 5 minutes, they will have begun making popping sounds and some of them will begin gaining a nice tanned brown color.
  • Transfer to a mixing bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving the remains of the oil behind in the pan. Sprinkle with the ground chile, salt and sugar and toss to coat. As they cool down, they will dry up and become crunchier. Eat or store covered with a lid. They will keep for about a week, if you don’t finish them before then.

Notes

Pepitas
dressed up Mexican beer or michelada
Print Recipe
5 from 4 votes

Dressed Up Mexican Beer

Dressed Up Mexican Beer recipe from Pati's Mexican Table Season 3, Episode 9 “Pot Luck Party”
Prep Time1 minute
Cook Time2 minutes
Total Time3 minutes
Course: Drinks
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: beer, hot sauce, lime, Maggi sauce, pati’s mexican table, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce
Servings: 1 beer
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1 beer mug chilled
  • Kosher or sea salt for coating the rim
  • 1 lime wedge
  • Ice cubes (optional)
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
  • 1 beer preferably Mexican, chilled
  • Dash of hot sauce like Tabasco Cholula or Valentina (optional)
  • Dash of a salty sauce like soy sauce Worcestershire or Maggi Sauce (optional)
  • Pinch of freshly ground black pepper (optional)
  • Pinch of kosher or coarse sea salt (optional)

Instructions

  • Pour a layer of salt onto a small plate. Rub the rim of a chilled beer mug with the lime wedge and dip the rim gently into the salt to coat. Place the ice cubes, if using, into the mug. If making a basic michelada, add the lime juice on top of the ice, then pour in the beer.
  • If making a michelada especial, salt the rim of a chilled beer mug as directed above, then place the optional ingredients, to taste, into the mug. Stir the mixture lightly then pour in the beer.

Notes

Michelada

Mexican Style Eggs: A la Papi

“All I want is a hamburger, a hot dog, a Pizza, a nice big steak, some Texas style bar-b-q and a big plate of pancakes… no tacos or anything Mexican ok?” My dad said, after devouring the welcoming meal I prepared for him, which happened to be Tacos de Guisado.

Guisados are Mexican style stews, which can be ladled into warm corn tortillas. There are plenty of Fondas or small restaurants that specialize in them throughout Mexico. Since my dad loves them, I received him with three of his favorites: Chicken Tinga heavy on the chipotle, beef cooked in a green salsa with cubed potatoes and nopalitos, cactus paddles, sauteed with onion, Guajillo Chilies and corn. There were also refried beans and white rice, as they are such friendly sides to tacos.

After he made it clear that he didn’t want anything Mexican for the next three days, making me laugh so hard along the way, we set off to satisfy his cravings.

The next morning we were at the pancake place in front of a double stack of buttermilk pancakes with butter, extra maple syrup and bacon. And some grits. It was hard to make him wait for lunch.  When he lost all patience he dragged me to the Pizza place and then had a Hot Fudge Sundae from across the street. Dinner came around soon enough along with steaks, baked potatoes and a Mexican Chayote salad I sneaked in there.

The next morning, after lox and bagels at home, we went for a late Texas style bar-b-q lunch. Dinner was a Reuben with lots of dill pickles and a potato salad. But the last morning he couldn’t help it.

mexican style eggs
Onion, Jalapeño chiles and tomatoes, getting ready to welcome some beaten eggs.

As he tied one of my aprons around his waist, he announced, I am making the best Huevos a la Mexicana that you have ever tried in your life. So we chopped just enough onion, less tomatoes than I would have wanted and a lot of Jalapeños. As he cooked, he used strange and probably non-existing terms to describe what made his eggs so tasty… See how I am un-rawing the onion and mushing the tomato?

There are countless egg dishes in Mexican cooking, one better than the other. But these are the ones I prepare the most at home. They are easy to make, super tasty and dress up a breakfast in a wink. What’s more, I always have oil, eggs, tomatoes, onion and either Jalapeño or Serrano chiles handy.

Although the ingredients are always the same, versions can vary. That is mostly because some people like my dad cook the tomatoes slightly, while others like me cook the tomatoes until they are pasty and smooshy looking (I see where I get my funny use of terms now). The ratio of ingredients also varies. I use more tomatoes than my dad, but we both like it spicy. Whereas I like to eat them with hot corn tortillas, my dad likes to eat them with toasted sandwich bread (some people love these eggs with a side of toast smothered in cream cheese and that is pretty tasty too…).

This just makes me think of how accommodating Mexican food is. You can learn a basic idea and how to make it, and then tweak it to your preference.

Though while we were making breakfast I was craving for more tomatoes in those eggs, and wishing we could cook them a bit more, I have to admit that his version that morning topped off any that I have tried. Maybe it was because of the way he explained why his version was the most incredible in the world, maybe it was because of how much he enjoyed eating them and scooping some into corn tortillas to make some tacos for me (he had said no more tacos but one can only go so many days without tacos, you know?), or maybe it was because I was sad to see him go.

We didn’t get to the hot dogs or the hamburgers. I had thought of the places to take him so he could eat them all, but we ran out of time. But as it’s been said, you have to leave something for the next time if you want that next time to happen. I have until then to recover from all that eating.

Meanwhile, I leave you with a recipe for Huevos a la Mexicana, my father’s style, with some notes on my variations. But you can come up with yours!

Pati's dad looking out the window
My dad looking out the window, almost time for the airport.
Mexican Style Eggs
Print Recipe
5 from 6 votes

Eggs a la Mexicana

There are countless egg dishes in Mexican cooking, one better than the other. But these are the ones I prepare the most at home. They are easy to make, super tasty and dress up a breakfast in a wink. What’s more, I always have oil, eggs, tomatoes, onion and either Jalapeño or Serrano chiles handy.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time15 minutes
Course: Breakfast
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: corn tortillas, Eggs, jalapeno, onion, pati's mexican table, serrano chiles, Tomatoes
Servings: 4 people
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons corn, safflower or vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup white onion chopped
  • 1 jalapeño or serrano chile seeded if less heat desired and finely chopped, or more to taste ( we went for 3)
  • 3/4 pound ripe tomatoes about 2 cups chopped (I add an extra cup)
  • 8 eggs lightly beaten
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt more or less to taste
  • Hot corn tortillas or pieces of toast

Instructions

  • Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions, and cook stirring often for about 4 minutes, until they have softened but not browned. Stir in the chiles, cook for another minute. Incorporate the chopped tomatoes and let the mix cook and season, stirring often, for about 5 minutes (I let them cook about 4 to 5 minutes more until tomatoes are thoroughly cooked, mushy and their red color has deepened).
  • Meanwhile, crack the eggs in a bowl, add some salt, and beat them with a whisk or fork. Lower the heat to medium-low and pour eggs over the tomato mix. Stir as the eggs cook until desired donenness, but don't let them dry up. Serve with a side of refried beans, hot tortillas or a piece of toast.

Notes

Huevos a la Mexicana

A True Mexican Collectible: Versatile Summertime Salsas…

When asked recently whether I was a collector of some sort, I thought of my grandmother’s cabinet that holds hundreds of elephant figurines — more than 60 years’ worth, from many places. And she’s still adding to the lot. So my response was no.

Then a few days later I realized that I am a collector: of foods tasted throughout my life, or at least the memories of them. This is especially true of salsas. I have countless papers scattered on my desk with notes about the names of them, the places I ate them, their ingredients, the cooks who made them and, when generously given, directions on how to re-create them.

When the mood strikes, I search to find that precise note (which may be in a coat pocket, bag or drawer). Or I sit down with eyes closed and try to remember the feel of the sauce.

When all else fails, I make one up.

If you look in my refrigerator, you will find a salsa. That is mainly because my husband is always asking for one but also because salsas can pump up the beauty and richness of any meal. To me, salsas are one of the exceptional elements of Mexican cooking: delicious, accommodating and versatile. Among the many possibilities, we eat salsas on top of rice, beans, potatoes; alongside meats, chicken, seafood and vegetables; spooned inside or outside all sorts of dishes such as tacos, quesadillas and enchiladas; scooped with a piece of toast and spooned straight from the container.

I wouldn’t dare guess how many salsas there are in Mexican cooking as I am sure to be wrong, and the cuisine keeps evolving. But I can safely say that if I were to give you a different salsa to taste each month, my lifetime, however long, wouldn’t give us enough time to cover the choices.

Salsas can be eaten from morning till night, and are known to be especially savored after midnight when the food stands on Mexican streets — and some in Los Angeles, as well — serve their secret-recipe salsas with antojos and quick dishes. The late-night crowds crave them.

Some are made with dozens of ingredients, prepared in laborious ways. Others use a few easy-to-find ingredients and can be assembled in minutes. For me, the latter sound like the perfect salsas for summer.

Three of my no-cook favorites, from my ever-growing and scattered collection, are a raw tomatillo and chipotle salsa, made lush with the addition of avocado and fresh cheese; a luxurious mango salsa with slivers of red onion, jalapeño and chopped cilantro; and a versatile, ancho chili pickled salsa, which keeps in the fridge for months.

If you are so inclined, please leave comments online about the accompanying recipes (or share with me whatever food-related things you tend to gather). I will collect them all.

This article was written for and published by The Washington Post on August 5, 2009 The Washington Post.

salsa verde or tomatillo salsa
Print Recipe
5 from 2 votes

Raw Tomatillo and Chipotle Salsa Verde

A raw tomatillo and chipotle salsa made lush with the addition of avocado and fresh cheese.
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time0 minutes
Total Time10 minutes
Course: Appetizer, Sauce
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Avocado, Chipotle, cruda, queso fresco, raw, Recipe, Salsa, salsa verde, tomatillos
Servings: 2 cups salsa approximately
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1 pound tomatillos husked, rinsed and quartered
  • 1 medium garlic clove coarsely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped white onion
  • Leaves and thin stems from 4 or 5 stems of cilantro coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
  • 2 tablespoons sauce from canned chipotle chiles in adobo plus 1 canned chipotle chile (optional)
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or more to taste
  • 1 ripe avocado cut into large dice (optional)
  • 8 ounces queso fresco cotija, or farmers cheese, cut into large dice (optional)

Instructions

  • Combine the quartered tomatillos, garlic, onion, cilantro, sauce from the canned chipotle chiles, the canned chipotle chile, if desired, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Puree until smooth, then transfer to a 2-cup container with a tight-fitting lid.
  • At this point, the salsa can be covered and refrigerated for a day.
  • When ready to serve, transfer to a serving bowl; add the avocado and cheese, if desired. Toss gently to combine. Taste and adjust salt as needed.

Notes

Salsa Verde Cruda con Chipotle
Fresh Mango Salsa
Print Recipe
5 from 5 votes

Fresh Mango Salsa

A luxurious mango salsa with slivers of red onion, jalapeño and chopped cilantro.
Prep Time10 minutes
Resting Time10 minutes
Total Time20 minutes
Course: Appetizer, Sauce
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: mango, Pico de Gallo, raw, Recipe, Salsa
Servings: 4 1/2 cups salsa
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1/2 medium red onion cut into very thin slivers (about 1/3 cup)
  • Juice from 2 limes about 4 tablespoons
  • 2 1/2 pounds (about 4) ripe mangoes peeled and cut into large dice
  • 1 large jalapeño pepper stemmed, seeded and finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons, or more to taste)
  • Leaves from 4 stems cilantro finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or more to taste

Instructions

  • Combine the onion and lime juice in a mixing bowl; toss to coat and let sit for 10 minutes.
  • Combine the mango, jalapeno, cilantro, oil and salt in a separate mixing bowl. Add the onion and lime juice mixture when it’s ready and toss to mix well. Taste and add salt or jalapeno as needed.

Notes

Pico de Gallo de Mango
ancho chile salsa
Print Recipe
3.88 from 8 votes

Ancho Chile Salsa (or Pickle)

This marinated salsa – more like a pickle or relish – is sweet, mildly spicy, and beguiling. It is a very versatile salsa, too, as you can use it like a regular salsa and spoon it on top of any kind of antojito, like tacos, quesadillas, and even scoop it up with chips. It can also act as a luxurious relish for grilled meat, chicken or seafood, not to mention paninis, tortas or hamburgers. You can also use it as the surprising final touch on crostinis with a base of goat or fresh cheese, or cherry tomatoes… And these are just a few options.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time8 hours
Course: Sauce
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: ancho chiles, brown sugar, chile, garlic, onion, piloncillo, Recipe, Salsa, vinegar
Servings: 2 cups
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 6 to 8 ancho chiles rinsed, stemmed and seeded, about 3 ounces
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
  • 1 clove garlic finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
  • 1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or coarse sea salt or to taste
  • 2 teaspoons brown sugar or grated piloncillo or to taste

Instructions

  • Using kitchen scissors or a sharp knife, cut the stemmed and seeded chiles lengthwise into thin strips and place them in a mixing bowl. Add the onion, garlic, vinegars, oil, salt and sugar to the bowl and toss to mix well. Transfer everything to a container with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate for at least 8 hours before using.

Notes

Escabeche de Chile Ancho

Comal

An essential cooking tool in Mexican kitchens, a comal is a flat plate or griddle, typically made of cast iron and a rim around the edges. They are usually round and found in many sizes, though there are some rectangular versions too. There are also comales made of aluminum, and in later years it has become quite popular to use the non-stick / teflon versions as they are more user friendly.

Comales were traditionally made, for centuries, of clay. In the countryside there are plenty of homes and fondas that still use clay comales and tend to have one for making tortillas and corn masa foods and another for charring or toasting vegetables and spices.

Here you can see the three different types of comales. In the back is a rectangular teflon, followed by an aluminum comal which is happily showing seasoning and aging signs, and up front is an old cast iron comal. Whichever comal you have, clean it lightly, with warm water, soap and a gentle sponge, so that if it is cast iron or aluminum it will slowly season, and if it is teflon it will not scratch.

Here is a more close up view…

Comal 1
Comales tend to be passed down through generations and are deeply esteemed. The comal that I treasure the most, up front in the above photos, comes from my mothers’ kitchen. It has about of 40 years of cooking life, has a beautiful black color with dark brown areas and it is not completely flat. It has dents, chips and texture developed through time and travels, which speak its history every time I cook in it.

When I went to Yucatán in December of 2008, I got a very large silver colored aluminum comal which has develop blackened areas throughout, but it took quite a while for it to be seasoned and to flavor foods as intensely as my older comal.

Comales are used for many things such as cooking tortillas, sopes, quesadillas and other related masa foods; charring tomatoes, tomatillos, fresh chiles, onion and garlic; toasting seeds, nuts, dried chiles and other spices; cooking vegetables like nopales or cactus paddles, corn, big Texas style onions and scallions, among other things.

You can find comales in international, Asian and Latin stores, as well as on the web. Or, you can substitute a comal with any other kind of cast iron plate or griddle or a heavy dry skillet, preferably non-stick if making tortillas.

However, there are benefits from having your own comal.  For one thing, as other Mexican kitchen tools such as molcajetes, aluminum and cast iron comales age with you, season with time and retain a memory of the flavors from their cooking life that permeates future foods cooked in them. Another benefit is that the comal infuses food with a rustic griddle flavor, lighter than a grill or smoker, but peculiar, rich and deep in its own way.

Comales are such an integral part of Mexican cuisine and culture that a town in one of Mexico’s most famous novels is named after it. If you like reading, I recommend it! It is called Pedro Páramo by Juan Rulfo. It tells the story of a man who travels to the hometown of his dying mother, and along the way he runs into a ghost town called Comala, which translates to a place that makes comales. The fictional town of Comala (though there is a real town called Comala too) has probably become larger than the novel and even the author in Mexican folklore and culture. It is said that the author gave it this name because the fictional town was eternally burning hot, just like a comal, which is typically used for long periods of time, many times a day and takes a long while to cool off.

Jamaica Flowers Charm the Kitchen

Growing up in Mexico City, my sisters and I used to prepare exotic meals, perfumes and potions for the inhabitants of our enchanted forest. That was our dog, the bluebird, snails, butterflies and ladybugs that happened to peek into our backyard and witness our extravagant mess. It also included any family friend who happened to stop by and become a willing victim. We sometimes offered cooking classes too.

My mother set us up in the backyard on a big blanket with random pots and pans, while she cooked laborious weekend meals. There was a fig tree, an apple tree, a peach tree, a couple of what we called Chinese orange trees and tons of azaleas and herbs that offered an immense array of witch-crafting material. But among our most prized ingredients were dried jamaica flowers, known here as hibiscus flowers, stored in a big jar in the kitchen.

Although not native to Mexico, with a contested origin between Africa and India, jamaica flowers arrived in colonial times and are now deeply integrated into Mexican cuisine. Mainly used to prepare agua de jamaica, one of the freshly flavored waters (aguas frescas), they are enjoyed daily throughout Mexico. Agua de jamaica is extremely popular because its tart flavor, also refreshing and light, complements Mexican food so well.

As a treat, and to make our wait more bearable, my mother would bring us a big pitcher of agua de jamaica. We would drink it, of course, but we would also pour it into ice cube molds with wooden sticks to make mini popsicles, or mix it with gelatin to make happy-looking jello, both of which are common in Mexico.

It was more fun, however, to sneak into the kitchen to get the dried flowers and experiment firsthand. Oh, how fascinating it was to see how they slowly infused the liquid in which they were soaking with an intensely deep and vivid red color. Their flowery and fragrant smell seemed to help with our magic spells, too.

After my husband and I moved to the U.S. in the 1990s, I would stuff them in my suitcase or ask someone to bring some when they visited from Mexico. My craving intensified while I was pregnant, since aside from their tangy taste (more welcome when carrying extra weight), their diuretic and digestive properties and richness in vitamin C and minerals are common knowledge in Mexico.

Luckily, I don’t have to stuff them in my suitcase anymore. As with most ingredients used to cook Mexican food, they can be found in a store close by or with the click of a button, which is wonderful because I use plenty of them. The traditional jamaica water is a staple on my table, but most of all, I am still playing with them in my own enchanted forest or busy kitchen.

Like other adventurous Mexican cooks, I have been experimenting with and expanding their culinary uses. For example, the easy-to-make concentrate used to flavor water makes a rich and sophisticated base for a thick and syrupy sauce to drizzle over gamey meats such as duck, venison or lamb.

An even more daring approach, which I find irresistible, is to munch on these wholesome flowers. However, they are hard and rather tasteless as they are. They have to macerate for at least a couple of hours before they become deliciously chewy and release their tart and cranberrylike flavor. Thus, they are perfect for making exotic vinaigrettes.

The concentrate has also been splashed into margaritas for some time now, and I was recently surprised to find hibiscus-infused tequila at a restaurant in downtown Washington, D.C. While I am no tequila connoisseur, it tasted heavenly.

These days when my mother visits, she tries to set up my three boys on a big blanket with pots and pans in our backyard. Within 10 minutes, the potion-making ends in a wrestling match. However, since one of their favorite things is to have brownies outside, maybe next time we bake some I can drizzle sweetened jamaica syrup and whipped cream on top. That is a recipe I still haven’t tried.

Article written and photos taken for and published by NPR’s Kitchen Window on July 22, 2009.

jamaica water
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4.50 from 6 votes

Hibiscus Flower Concentrate

Although not native to Mexico, with a contested origin between Africa and India, jamaica flowers arrived in colonial times and are now deeply integrated into Mexican cuisine. Mainly used to prepare agua de jamaica, one of the freshly flavored waters (aguas frescas), they are enjoyed daily throughout Mexico.
Prep Time0 minutes
Cook Time10 minutes
Total Time10 minutes
Course: Drinks
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Concentrado, concentrate, flowers, hibiscus, jamaica, water
Servings: 5 cups
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 8 cups water
  • 2 cups (about 2-3 ounces) dried hibiscus or jamaica flowers
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar or to taste
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Instructions

  • In a 6- or 8-quart saucepan, bring water to a boil. Add flowers, stir and simmer over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the mixture cool a bit.
  • Strain mixture into a large container (with a lid to cover later), and add the sugar and lime juice. Stir until well-dissolved.
  • Once the concentrate has cooled, cover well and refrigerate. It will keep in the refrigerator for months.

Notes

Concentrado de Jamaica
jamaica water
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4.75 from 8 votes

Jamaica Water

Jamaica Water recipe from Pati's Mexican Table Season 1, Episode 6 "Hibiscus Flowers"
Cook Time10 minutes
Total Time10 minutes
Course: Drinks
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: agua fresca, beverage, coconut water, drink, hibiscus, jamaica, Mexican, non-alcoholic, refreshing, water
Servings: 4 to 5 cups
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

Jamaica Concentrate (makes about 5 cups):

  • 8 cups water
  • 2 cups dried hibiscus or jamaica flowers about 2-3 ounces, depending on how tightly you pack the cups
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar or to taste
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice or to taste

Jamaica Water:

  • 1 cup of the Jamaica Concentrate
  • 3 to 4 cups water

Instructions

To make the concentrate:

  • In a saucepan, pour 8 cups of water and place over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, add the jamaica flowers, simmer at medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes and turn off the heat. Let it cool down and strain into a heat proof glass or plastic water jar. Add the sugar and lime juice, mix well, cover and refrigerate.
  • It will keep in the refrigerator for at least 3 months.

To make the jamaica water:

  • When ready to serve, dilute 1 cup concentrate with 3 to 4 cups water, or to your liking, and some ice cubes.

Notes

Agua de Jamaica
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4.15 from 7 votes

Hibiscus Flowers and Hibiscus Tea

Hibiscus Flowers and Hibiscus Tea recipe from Pati's Mexican Table Season 4, Episode 10 "Modern Mexico"
Cook Time15 minutes
Total Time15 minutes
Course: Drinks
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: drink, hibiscus, honey, jamaica, tea
Servings: 6 cups tea
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 6 cups water
  • 1/2 cup honey
  • 2 ounces dried hibiscus flowers

Instructions

  • In a medium saucepan, bring water and honey to a boil. Stir in dried hibiscus flowers, stir and cook at a simmer for about 15 minutes, until flowers are completely rehydrated and soft.
  • Strain flowers, reserving liquid for tea, and finely chop. Set aside.
jamaica popsicles
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5 from 7 votes

Jamaica Popsicles

Jamaica Popsicles recipe from Pati's Mexican Table Season 1, Episode 6 “Hibiscus Flowers”
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time4 hours
Total Time4 hours 15 minutes
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Chocolate, coconut, flowers, hibiscus, jamaica, mango, Paleta, Popsicle, rum
Servings: 8 popsicles
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

To make Jamaica Concentrate (makes about 5 cups):

  • 8 cups water
  • 2 cups, about 2-3 ounces, dried hibiscus flowers depending on how tightly you pack the cups
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar or to taste
  • 2 tbsp fresh lime juice or to taste

To make Jamaica Popsicles:

  • 2 cups hibiscus flower/jamaica concentrate
  • 3/4 cup mango peeled, pitted diced
  • Chocolate morsels to taste optional
  • Shredded coconut to taste optional
  • For adult fun you can make them grown up and add some Rum!

Instructions

To make the concentrate:

  • In a saucepan, pour 8 cups of water and place over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, add the jamaica flowers, simmer at medium heat for 10 minutes and turn off the heat. When cool, strain into a heat proof glass or plastic water jar. Add the sugar and lime juice, mix well, cover and refrigerate.

To make the popsicles:

  • Pour 2 cups of jamaica concentrate into 8, 4 ounce molds. Add pieces of mango, chocolate and coconut. Place in freezer until set and frozen, about 4 to 5 hours. Enjoy!

Notes

Paletas de Jamaica
Jamaica Water Main
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5 from 3 votes

Seared Duck Breast with Hibiscus Flower and Orange Sauce

Easy-to-make hibiscus flower concentrate is used to make a rich and sophisticated base for a thick and syrupy sauce to drizzle over gamey meat, such as duck.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time1 hour
Total Time1 hour 5 minutes
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: duck, duck breast, edible, flowers, hibiscus, jamaica, meat, Naranja, orange, pato, Pechuga, Recipe
Servings: 6 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

Sauce:

  • 4 cups jamaica or hibiscus flower concentrate
  • 2 cups chicken broth homemade or store-bought
  • Rind of an orange
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 whole cloves
  • 5 black peppercorns
  • 1 cinnamon stick about 2 inches long (use Ceylon or true cinnamon if you can)
  • 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or more to taste

Duck Breasts:

  • 6 duck breasts with skin about 6 to 8 ounces each
  • 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt or more to taste
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper freshly ground, or to taste

Instructions

Sauce:

  • Pour concentrate and broth into a medium-sized heavy saucepan over medium high heat. Bring to a boil and add the orange rind, bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon stick, vinegar and salt. Simmer at medium-high heat for about 35 minutes.
  • Bring heat down to medium-low, as the sauce will have reduced considerably and will be simmering too strongly. Keep on a low simmer until the sauce achieves a thick, syrupy consistency, about 10 more minutes. Don’t let it thicken too much, as the sauce will continue to thicken as it cools. Remove the spices using a slotted spoon or strainer, and reserve in a container.
  • If you are not going to use it in the next couple of hours, or you made more than you need, let it cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat before using.

Duck breasts:

  • Thoroughly rinse the duck breasts under a thin stream of cold water and pat dry. Make 6 to 8 diagonal cuts through the skin of each breast, being careful not to cut through the meat. Season with kosher salt and pepper to taste.
  • Preheat the oven to 400°F.
  • Heat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Once it is hot but not smoking, place the duck breasts skin-side down and sear for 6 to 7 minutes, until the skin is brown and crisp, and most of the fat melts and turns into liquid.
  • Move the breasts, skin-side up, to an ovenproof dish or pan. Place in the oven for 5 to 9 minutes, depending on how rare you like your meat: about 5 minutes for quite rare and about 8 to have a nice pink center.
  • Remove the breasts from the oven and let them sit for a couple of minutes before slicing. Slice diagonally along already marked skin. Drizzle jamaica and orange sauce on top.

Notes

Pechuga De Pato Con Salsa De Jamaica Y Naranja
Jamaica Water Main
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5 from 1 vote

Watercress, Goat Cheese and Pecan Salad with Hibiscus Flower Vinaigrette

Hibiscus flowers are hard and rather tasteless as they are. They have to macerate for at least a couple of hours before they become deliciously chewy and release their tart and cranberry-like flavor. Thus, they are perfect for making exotic vinaigrettes.
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time0 minutes
Resting Time4 hours
Total Time4 hours 15 minutes
Course: Appetizer, Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Berros, Ensalada, flowers, goat cheese, hibiscus, jamaica, Nueces, pecans, Queso De Cabra, Recipe, salad, vinaigrette, watercress
Servings: 6 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup champagne vinegar
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1/2 cup safflower or corn oil
  • 1 garlic clove finely minced
  • 2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt or to taste
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper or to taste
  • 1 cup hibiscus flowers
  • 12 ounces watercress rinsed and drained
  • 8 ounces fresh goat cheese cut into 12 slices (can be crumbled, too)
  • 1/2 cup pecans or pine nuts lightly toasted

Instructions

  • Pour the champagne vinegar into a 3- to 4-quart mixing bowl. Slowly add both the olive oil and the safflower oil as you whisk them into the vinegar with a fork or whisk. Mix in the minced garlic, sugar, salt and pepper. Add the flowers and toss them well. Let them macerate from 4 to 6 hours.
  • Remove the flowers with a slotted spoon, reserving the vinaigrette. Chop the flowers and return them to the vinaigrette. You may use then, or cover and refrigerate up to a week. Mix very well before using and taste for seasoning as it may have become a bit more tart as the days go by and need more salt and sugar.
  • Place the watercress in a salad bowl. Toss with some vinaigrette and top with goat cheese slices and toasted pecans or pine nuts.

Notes

Ensalada De Berros, Queso De Cabra Y Nueces Con Vinagreta De Jamaica

We could all use a little Horchata…

No matter how hard we tried we just couldn’t stay dry.

A single step out of the plane and it all seemed part of a magical realism novel from Gabriel Garcí­a Márquez. In that hot, humid and tropical pueblo, every move was slowed down in a permanent mist, which made my clothes feel damp. Under the open sunny sky, that mist was shiny and full of light as it transformed the colors from the exotic overgrown plants, colorful houses and small streets. There were cute little insects, bees and hummingbirds moving all around. Wide chubby trees offered some shade, as people walked by with no hurry, wearing earth colored hats.

And everything, absolutely everything, was infused with the lusciously sweet aroma of vanilla.

No. I don’t do drugs.

This is a true description of a small town in the region of Totonacapan in the state of Veracruz, where vanilla originated and is still heavily grown. Also where my husband and I were invited to a wedding, more than a decade ago. And it was in that small pueblo, where I tasted the best horchata I have ever tried.

Granted, memory has its ways of doing its own little thing. And granted, I was much younger and a complete newlywed, so probably more melodramatic. But I would bet this sweet, comforting, silky and refreshing horchata my hand is holding, that if I were there today my description would be just the same.

One could say I got lucky recently at a cooking demonstration and dinner for the Smithsonian. In small part by meticulous planning and in large part by chance, everyone there must have felt transported to Veracruz. Here’s why.

Son de Madera had just performed Son Jarocho music. The entire Mexican Cultural Institute was infused with the aroma of the vanilla beans and extract we had been cooking with all day, which was shipped from a company in that region to create the vanilla inspired menu. An unforeseen thunderstorm had left behind a wet ambiance. And to top it all off, in that hot summer evening, a couple air conditioning units decided to contribute to the programs’ authenticity and take a brake.

Horchata 1(Members from Son de Madera, getting ready for an outstanding performance)

As the 100 audience members listened to my description of the steamy pueblo, I kept wiping my forehead dry. I couldn’t help but laugh out loud in amazement. Indeed! It was tropical, hot and humid. All we were missing were the cute little insects, bees and hummingbirds.

It was a good thing that aside from wine and peanut Toritos, an original aperitif, we had big glass barrels filled with this cold homemade horchata. People could drink as much of it as their hearts pleased.

As it gets hotter as the summer advances, and we are not even near August, I am sharing the recipe with you too. It is very easy to make.

There are many versions of horchatas in Mexico. Some have a base of white rice while others use cantaloupe seeds. I prefer the former. But rice horchatas can be made in many ways. Some add condensed and/or evaporated milk. I add milk, which is more traditional, as well as vanilla extract and true cinnamon. And rather than grinding the rice first, I like to soak it for a couple hours before it is pureed and strained. It seems easier, and somehow, has more flavor.

(Rice and cinnamon soaking in warm water, getting ready for an outstanding performance too!)

But the special spin of this horchata, which is not that common and makes it go from delicious to you can’t have anymore because I am finishing it all up, is coconut water. It makes it thirst quenching and energizing, as it brings you a couple steps closer to those tropical pueblos. Plus, it adds a soft layer of thickness without making it heavy.

There is always a shortcut to most things in the kitchen… If you don’t want to make horchata from scratch, you can find horchata concentrate in many stores or online. Just add coconut water as you mix the concentrate with water and/or milk. But if you have a bit of extra time to spare, try making it from scratch. I am sure you will enjoy it.

Horchata main
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4.67 from 3 votes

Horchata with Coconut Water, Cinnamon and Vanilla

This is a true description of a small town in the region of Totonacapan in the state of Veracruz, where vanilla originated and is still heavily grown. Also where my husband and I were invited to a wedding, more than a decade ago. And it was in that small pueblo, where I tasted the best horchata I have ever tried. Granted, memory has its ways of doing its own little thing. And granted, I was much younger and a complete newlywed, so probably more melodramatic. But I would bet this sweet, comforting, silky and refreshing horchata my hand is holding, that if I were there today my description would be just the same.
Prep Time2 minutes
Cook Time2 hours 10 minutes
Course: Drinks
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: cinnamon, cocktail, coconut water, mexican vanilla, milk, Recipe, rice
Servings: 6 glasses
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 cups long or extra long white rice
  • 2 cups hot water
  • 1 cinnamon stick (Ceylon or true cinnamon, if you can)
  • 2 cups coconut water can be fresh or canned
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • 3 cups milk
  • 1 1/4 cup sugar
  • Ground cinnamon to sprinkle on top optional

Instructions

  • Place the rice in a bowl, cover with hot water. Roughly crumble cinnamon piece into the rice mix and let it all sit and rest anywhere from 2 to 8 hours outside of the refrigerator.
  • Place half of the rice mixture in the blender with the coconut water and vanilla and blend until smooth, strain into a pitcher or container. Place the other half of the rice mixture in the blender with the milk and the sugar, pure until smooth and strain into the same pitcher or container.
  • Stir well and serve over ice cubes, or place in the refrigerator until it is cold. Serve with more ice cubes to your liking and sprinkle some ground cinnamon on top if you wish to do so.

Notes

Horchata

Cinnamon

The cinnamon mostly used in Mexican cuisine is called Ceylon, or Canela in Spanish, and it is also known as true cinnamon. It is quite different from Cassia, which is mostly found in US stores. However, as time moves on, one can find true cinnamon in an increasing number of stores here.

The differences are in the looks but also in the flavor and aroma. Ceylon or true cinnamon (pictured on the right side of the photo), has a milder but sweeter taste. It crumbles much easier, has a lighter color and each stick looks different from the rest. It also has more fragrance than Cassia. Cassia sticks (pictured on the left side of the photo) are much more uniform, so one stick looks very much like the next. It has a darker color, it is much harder, thus very difficult to tear or crumble. While it is less sweet than Ceylon, it has a much stronger, and even a bit harsh, flavor.

Three tasty ways to eat ripe plantains

Ay, ay, ay! Patita, espérate mamacita! My nanny repeated, as she snatched the hot plantain tightly wrapped in aluminum foil, from my hands. Her hands were more resistant, she insisted, as they were older and had cooked so much. She would hold my chosen package with an open hand, so the camotero (sweet potato street cart man, who also sold plantains) could tear up the foil. As the steam flew up to the skies, he poured a more-than-any-child-could-wish-for amount of sweetened condensed milk, and so it fell, sweet ounce, by thick ounce, onto that moist, rich, filling and immensely satisfying treat. Sheer joy, that was.

I devoured it in what seemed a couple bites, just to lick the last but yummiest remains from the crumbled foil. There we were, standing on the street corner where my family lived, mischievously laughing; it was already getting dark, almost dinnertime, and no, no, no, I wasn’t supposed to be having any. Oh dear, how I miss that woman! Now every time I eat a plantain, I get a sparkle of that sheer joy.

So I understand my boys when they rush out to the street, their heartbeats pumping so loud I can clap their rhythms, as I scream out wait, wait, wait! as that annoying ice cream truck song approaches. Yes, right before dinner, thank you Mr. Ice Cream Man. I once felt that too, with an even more shrilling whistle coming out from the camotero street cart.

We used to eat cooked ripe plantains throughout the year, and ironically, they seemed to taste even better during the hot and rainy summer months.  As some people say, sometimes hot, beats the heat.

White Rice and Fried Plantains 1(Plantains on my dining room table, the one covered in black spots is ripe and ready to be cooked)

Plantains, called macho bananas, plátano macho, in many areas of Mexico, can just change gears and move from one course to another. Eaten as described above, they make an original dessert or an anytime sweet treat. Covered in foil and thrown on the grill, and along some grilled meat or chicken with a spicy kick, they make an incredible side. All you need is a simple salad and you have a wholesome tasty meal. If you forgot to eat them and you are already moving to dessert, just drizzle some sweet condensed milk, honey, sugar, Rompope, or ice cream on top! I don’t think one can say this about many other ingredients… maybe sweet potatoes or grilled pineapples.

Another option to eat ripe plantains, which is extremely popular, is to fry them, plátanos fritos. They are peeled, thickly and diagonally sliced (to make them pretty, why not?) and as they brown in the hot oil, their sugar caramelizes. So when you start to bite in, you get a sweet crunch, and when you are deep into the bite, you get a gently mushy and soft finish.

In Mexican cooking, fried plantains are famously eaten on top of white rice, as in the main post photo. This brings a nice contrast of sweet and soft with savory and coarse. If you want to go over the top, drizzle some Mexican or Latin style cream or sour cream as a finishing touch. Try that and you will have a piece of sheer bliss too.

NOTE: Click here to read about plantains, how to buy them and how to recognize when they are ripe. Of course, there are other ways to eat them when they are not ripe, as they do in the Gulf Coast, but that is a topic for a future post. Meanwhile enjoy one of these three ways to eat them ripe, or try them all!

fried plantains
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5 from 3 votes

Baked Plantains for Dessert

Plantains, called macho bananas, plátano macho, in many areas of Mexico, can just change gears and move from one course to another. They make an original dessert or an anytime sweet treat. Just drizzle some sweet condensed milk, honey, sugar, Rompope, or ice cream on top! 
Cook Time25 minutes
Course: Dessert, Snack
Cuisine: Latin American, Mexican
Keyword: Baked, Dessert, Plantains, Sweet, Sweetened Condensed Milk
Servings: 2 to 4 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 ripe plantains
  • Sweetened condensed milk to your liking or honey, sugar, ice cream or rompope

Instructions

  • Preheat oven to 400°F. Individually wrap the plantains, with their skin on, in aluminum foil and place in a baking sheet in the oven (some people bake them without the aluminum foil, you can try it both ways).
  • Bake for about 25 minutes, until plantains are completely cooked through, very soft and sugar has begun to caramelize. Carefully open up the foil making a slit down the middle, open it up, and pour the condensed milk on top.

Notes

Platano Macho al Horno
fried plantains
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5 from 1 vote

Grilled Plantains

Plantains, called macho bananas, plátano macho, in many areas of Mexico, can just change gears and move from one course to another. Covered in foil and thrown on the grill, and along some grilled meat or chicken with a spicy kick, they make an incredible side. All you need is a simple salad and you have a wholesome tasty meal.
Prep Time0 minutes
Cook Time20 minutes
Total Time20 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Plantains, Platanos
Servings: 2 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 ripe plantains

Instructions

  • Preheat grill to medium heat. Individually wrap the unpeeled plantains in aluminum foil and place on the grill.
  • Let them cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, until they are soft and cooked through. You may also cook them on the upper rack of the grill at a different temperature, but it may take more or less time.
  • You know they are ready when they feel extremely soft to the touch and the sugar has begin to caramelize.

Notes

Platanitos Fritos
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5 from 5 votes

White Rice and Fried Plantains

White Rice and Fried Plantains recipe from Pati's Mexican Table Season 2, Episode 6 “Fonda Favorites”
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time30 minutes
Total Time45 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: celery, chicken broth, onion, pati’s mexican table, Plantains, rice, serrano chiles, sour cream
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 cups white rice
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil plus more for frying plantains
  • 1/2 cup white onion finely chopped
  • 4 cups chicken stock prepared or homemade
  • 1 celery stalk cut in half
  • 1 fresh parsley sprig
  • 1 tablespoon lime juice or to taste
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt or to taste
  • 2 ripe plantains peeled and sliced
  • 1 serrano chile
  • sour cream to garnish, optional

Instructions

To prepare the rice:

  • Place the rice in a large bowl and cover with very hot water; let it soak anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water and drain again.
  • Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the rice and cook, stirring softly for 2 to 3 minutes. Incorporate the onion and stir, from time to time, until the rice begins to change to a milky-white color and feels and sounds heavier, as if it were grains of sand; about 3 to 4 more minutes.Pour in the chicken stock, along with the celery, parsley, lime juice, salt and whole chile.
  • When it comes to a rolling boil, cover the pot, reduce the heat to the lowest setting and cook until the rice is cooked through and the liquid has been absorbed, about 15 to 20 minutes. If the rice grains don’t seem soft and cooked through, add a bit more chicken broth or water and let it cook for another 5 more minutes or so.
  • Remove the pan from the heat and let it sit, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork when ready to serve. Place the cooked plantains (below) on top. Place sour cream on the side for people to add to their rice and plantains if they like.

To prepare the plantains:

  • Note: The skin of the plantain should be almost entirely black when it is mature and ready to use in this recipe.
  • Peel the plantains and slice them diagonally into 1/4-inch thick slices.
  • In a sauté pan, over medium heat, add about 1/4-inch of oil. Heat the oil until hot but not smoking. Add the plantain slices and fry until browned but not blackened, about 2 minutes per side, the oil should be bubbling around their edges of the plantain slices as they cook.
  • Remove the plantains from the oil and drain them on a plate covered with paper towels.

Notes

Arroz Blanco con Plátanos Fritos

Plantain

Plantains are now available almost anywhere in the United States. They have the appearance of being thicker, longer and bigger type of bananas. But they are not. No wonder they are called macho bananas, plátano macho, in most areas of Mexico. Although from the same family, plantains are a different ingredient. They are starchier, meatier, firmer, milder in flavor and have much thicker skin than bananas and are better treated as vegetables in a culinary sense, since they are only eaten cooked.

Also different from bananas, they are completely immature when their skin is green, they begin to mature when it is yellow and they are ripe and ready to use when it is almost entirely black. You also know they are ripe and ready when they feel soft and give in a little, but don’t feel mushy, to your hand.

plantain 1

When you buy plantains, if they are green, yellow or have very few black spots on their skin let them sit and mature in a warm area of your kitchen. It will take about 3 days to go from the clean yellow, to the ripe and almost black.

I grew up in Mexico City eating different versions of plantain, but always ripe. In other regions of Mexico, such as the Gulf Coast they are also eaten unripe, but always cooked.

Plantains can be steamed, grilled, baked or fried. They can move from being part of an appetizer, drink or soup to a side and a dessert, depending on how they are cooked and what they are accompanied with. They are also used to thicken, add texture and flavor to some sauces, moles and stews.

Serrano Chile

Mexican cooking authority Diana Kennedy has said that the Serrano chile has the shape of a bullet. One could say that it tastes like one too! Serranos are spicy. However, as with most chiles, you can pump down the heat by removing the seeds and veins.

They have, like the Jalapeños, a dark and deep green color, shinny skin and a small and thin stem.  However, Serranos tend to be on the smaller side and are much thinner and appear longer.

It seems to me, Serranos have a fuller and more flagrant flavor than the Jalapeños. Don’t buy them if the have wrinkled skin or brown or black spots.

serrano 1

Pickled Jalapeños: Basic Recipe

Pickled Jalapeños are a very popular garnish, topping or side for plenty of Mexican foods like tortas, tacos, quesadillas, grilled meats, rice, beans, tostadas… just to name some. So much so, that in many Restaurants, they are placed in the center of the table along the side of salt, pepper and a breadbasket. Many people nibble on them right out of the bowl… They are popular in Mexican Pizzerias too!

You can make your own or buy them already bottled or canned at the stores. They are so intensely used, that there are plenty of brands that carry them as a regular product. Taste does vary considerably from one brand to another, so try a couple, and see which ones you like more.

There are many variations to homemade Pickled Jalapeños. Many cooks macerate them first in coarse or kosher salt, which I also do. This pumps down the heat from the chiles and liberates some of their liquid to start the pickling process.

The ones I tend to make at home the most are the more traditional type, in which the chiles, carrots, onion and garlic are first fried in oil. Minutes later they are accompanied by a combination of spices, and a mild home-style vinegar (or a combination of rice vinegar with the stronger white distilled vinegar), salt and sugar.

Other versions add more vegetables to the mix, such as precooked small potatoes, cactus paddles, green beans and cauliflower. You should feel free to add any other ingredient that sounds interesting to you. There are some versions that even add pieces of corn (absolutely scrumptious!)

One of the wonderful things about pickling, is that aside from not being complicated, it brings out certain characteristics of the ingredients you are working with in an unusual way and it also prolongs their life in that stage.

This recipe makes a big batch, because they are likely to go fast, and also because it takes a bit of time to make them, so I like to make a larger amount. They will last ages in the refrigerator if they don’t go as fast as I predict.

NOTE: I don’t typically recommend the use of gloves for cooking, but since this recipe involves cleaning quite a few chiles, you may want to use gloves. If you don’t and your hands burn a little, wash them with warm water and soap, or rub them with a spoonful of oil, or soak them in a bit of milk, sour or heavy cream or ice cream. Any of those methods should take care of it, as they help dilute capsaicin the somewhat oily substance which contains the heat in chiles.

Print Recipe
4.67 from 6 votes

Pickled Jalapeños (with Carrots and Onions Too!)

Pickled Jalapeños are a very popular garnish, topping or side for plenty of Mexican foods like tortas, tacos, quesadillas, grilled meats, rice, beans, tostadas… just to name some. So much so, that in many Restaurants, they are placed in the center of the table along the side of salt, pepper and a breadbasket. Many people nibble on them right out of the bowl… They are popular in Mexican Pizzerias too!
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time1 day 15 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: carrots, jalapeno, onion, pati's mexican table, pickled, Pickled Jalapeños, Recipe, Vegetarian, vinegar
Servings: 15 cups
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 3 pounds jalapeño chiles rinsed, sliced and seeded
  • 3 pounds carrots peeled and diagonally sliced
  • 1 pound white pearl onions or large scallions white and light green parts only
  • 4 tablespoons kosher or coarse sea salt
  • 15 to 20 garlic cloves
  • 1 cup safflower or corn oil
  • 2 cups white distilled vinegar
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 teaspoons dried thyme
  • 1 tablespoon dried oregano
  • 6 whole cloves
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon brown sugar
  • 2 cups unseasoned rice vinegar

Instructions

  • Rinse the Jalapeños, remove the stems, slice in half and scoop out the seeds. (Since there are quite a few chiles to clean you may want to use gloves). Place them in a large mixing bowl. Rinse the carrots, remove their tops, peel and diagonally slice into about 1/4″ thick pieces. Place in the large mixing bowl along with the Jalapeños. Peel the pearl onions of the outer dry skin and add into same bowl. Sprinkle all these vegetables with the salt, toss around and let them sit for about an hour.
  • Place the white distilled vinegar in the blender along with the water, peppercorns, cumin seed, whole cloves, bay leaves, thyme, oregano and brown sugar. Puree until smooth.
  • In a large, deep and thick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking, for about 2 minutes. Carefully add the salted vegetables, reserving their juices, and fry for about 6 to 8 minutes, stirring here and there, until they begin to soften. Add the garlic cloves, and cook for 2 more minutes.
  • Carefully add the vegetable reserved juices, along with the white distilled vinegar mix and the rice vinegar. Let it all cook for about 5 more minutes. Turn off the heat and let it cool.
  • Place in a container with a lid and store in the refrigerator. I like to use glass jars. For some reason they seem to taste even better. Let the vegetables pickle for at least a day before eating. They will keep for months, if you don’t finish them before…

Pickled Jalapeño Kind of Gal

I am not one to carry a bottle of hot sauce in my bag wherever I go. I do have an uncle that proudly does. Wherever he travels, his Tabasco sauce eagerly jumps out of his bag and splashes its somewhat flavorless heat on whatever food it happens to come across. Yep, fancy restaurants too.

Now I know, Mexicans have the reputation of loving to eat everything with chiles.  I admit this to be true. As Fray Bartolomé de las Casas, Spanish priest, defender of indigenous people, and chronicler or early colonia times said in the XVI century chiles, Mexicans do not consider they have eaten. Hmmmm… the same can be said today. With the caveat that it’s not just the heat that we crave.

Most Mexicans are picky chile eaters. Since we have so many varieties, and such varied and distinct ways to use and prepare them, we can exquisitely discriminate how and what we pair them with. We love their different flavors, textures, fragrances and personalities. It is like considering different kinds of fruits. So my uncle is more an exception than the rule.

All this to say, without any excuse, that although I am not a hot sauce bottle kind of woman, I am a pickled Jalapeño kind of gal.

But I do have my limits… just like reasonable limits most pickled pickles kinds of people have. They may eat a pickle with different kinds of sandwiches; how about a schnitzel with mashed potatoes; it sounds good with a thick and juicy veal sausage with sauerkraut; and of course a fresh bagel with lox… But it would be surprising to see pickled pickles kinds of people eat them with a bowl of Spaghetti Marinara.

Pickled Jalapenos 2(Photo of Jalapeños, carrots and onions macerating in kosher salt in pickling process)

I don’t want to judge, people should eat whatever they want along whatever pickle or salsa they want. But it does make sense to have some guidelines to help us define and enjoy the world we live in. So no pickles with ice cream for me, and no, my pregnancies were not an excuse for that either.

Yet, it was really funny to see the surprise on my friends faces when we walked into a Pizzeria in Cape May about a month ago, after I asked the Pizza man if he had pickled jalapeños as a side or as a topping. His face was not only as surprised as my friends’ were, but it also gave me the quick and definite answer, NO! (which really felt like an are you crazy woman?).

So there you go, if I were to move to a part of the world where there are no pickled jalapeños, or fresh jalapeños to pickle, I would bring my own (along with a can of chipotles chiles in adobo sauce and a jar of homemade salsa verde).

When Mimi and David, a couple of our surprised friends, invited us to their house for a homemade Pizza party this coming Saturday I asked “what can I bring, please?”. But then, I couldn’t help but say “instead of the salad, can I bring some homemade pickled jalapeños?”. Ok, that wasn’t very polite of me.

PIckled Jalapenos 2(Already pickled Jalapeños in their glass jars, ready to go to our friends’ house)

Let me please explain. Pickled jalapeños may not work with everything, but they do work on an incredible number of things: sandwiches, tortas, quesadillas, as a side to scrambled eggs, enfrijoladas, grilled meats, rice. I could go on. Oh! My Colombian friend Tamara, just as plenty of Mexicans do, nibbles on them right out of the jar.

The important thing here is that they are spectacular over Pizza. So much that Pizzerias in Mexico typically offer them as an optional topping.

As promised in my last post, here’s my favorite way to pickle your own Jalapeños. They tend to be pickled with other vegetables like onions, garlic and carrots, which is what I typically do. There are other versions that add other ingredients like previously boiled baby potatoes, green beans, cauliflower and cactus paddles. Wonderful as well! Feel free to play with the ingredients that wink an eye to you.

One of the wonderful things about pickling, is that aside from not being complicated, it brings out certain characteristics of the ingredients you are working with in an unusual way and it also prolongs their life in that stage.

This recipe makes a big batch, because they are likely to go fast, and also because since it takes a bit of time to make them, I like to make a bigger amount. They will last ages in the refrigerator if they don’t go as fast as I predict. And next time you eat Pizza, give it a try! If you don’t want to make them, there are many brands in most supermarkets that sell them already canned and delicious.

NOTE: I don’t typically recommend the use of gloves for cooking, but since this recipe involves cleaning quite a few chiles, you may want to use gloves. If you don’t and your hands burn a little, wash them with warm water and soap, or rub them with a spoonful of oil, or soak them in a bit of milk, sour or heavy cream or ice cream. Any of those methods should take care of it, as they help dilute capsaicin, the somewhat oily substance which contains the heat in chiles.

Pickled Jalapenos main
Print Recipe
4.67 from 6 votes

Pickled Jalapeños (with Carrots and Onions too!)

Pickled Jalapeños may not work with everything, but they do work on an incredible number of things: sandwiches, tortas, quesadillas, as a side to scrambled eggs, enfrijoladas, grilled meats, rice.. I could go on… Oh! My Colombian friend Tamara, just as plenty of Mexicans do, nibbles on them right out of the jar. The important thing here is that they are spectacular over Pizza. So much that Pizzerias in Mexico typically offer them as an optional topping.
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time1 day 15 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Recipe, Vegetarian
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 3 pounds jalapeño chiles rinsed, sliced and seeded
  • 3 pounds carrots peeled and diagonally sliced
  • 1 pound white pearl onions or large scallions white and light green parts only
  • 4 tablespoons kosher or sea salt
  • 15 to 20 cloves garlic
  • 1 cup safflower or corn oil
  • 2 cups white distilled vinegar
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 teaspoons dried thyme
  • 1 tablespoon dried oregano
  • 6 whole cloves
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon brown sugar
  • 2 cups unseasoned rice vinegar

Instructions

  • Rinse the jalapeños, remove the stems, slice in half and scoop out the seeds (since they are quite a few chiles to clean you may want to use gloves). Place them in a large mixing bowl. Rinse the carrots, remove their tops, peel and diagonally slice into about 1/4" thick. Place in the large mixing bowl along with the Jalapeños. Peel the pearl onions of the outer dry skin and add into same bowl. Sprinkle all these vegetables with the salt, toss around and let them sit for about an hour.
  • Place the white distilled vinegar in the blender along with the water, peppercorns, cumin seed, whole cloves, bay leaves, thyme, oregano and brown sugar. Puree until smooth.
  • In a large, deep and thick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking, for about 2 minutes. Carefully add the salted vegetables, reserving their juices, and fry for about 6 to 8 minutes, stirring here and there, until they begin to soften. Add the garlic cloves, and cook for 2 more minutes.
  • Carefully add the vegetable reserved juices, along with the white distilled vinegar mix and the rice vinegar. Let it all cook for about 5 more minutes. Turn off the heat and let it cool.
  • Place in a container with a lid and store in the refrigerator. I like to use glass jars. For some reason they seem to taste even better. Let the vegetables pickle for at least a day before eating. They will keep for months, if you don't finish them before...

Notes

Jalapeños en Escabeche

Jalapeño Chile

This is probably the most well known fresh chile outside of Mexico. It is extremely popular inside the country as well. It looks a bit similar to the Serrano chile, and can be used interchangeably, thus they are many times confused. They are both dark green, with a shine to them, and carry a small and thin darker stem.

However, the Jalapeño is larger, bigger, rounder and chubbier than the Serrano. Ironically, it is milder in heat and has a lighter taste. Just as most fresh chiles, its heat can be pumped down by removing the seeds and veins. Similarly as other fresh chiles, don’t buy them if they have wrinkled skin or dark brown or black spots.

Continue reading “Jalapeño Chile”

The Washington Post: Welcome to Pati’s Table

“You know how some people just light up a room? In Patricia Jinich’s case it’s more than just a smile, although hers is spectacular. Its her unique combination of grace, modesty, passion and energy that does it. She also happens to have quickly become one of my favorite cooking teachers in the city. When I finally made it to one of her classes…”

I am packing my own Torta…

Some people get motion sickness when they travel. Some people get hungry. I am among the latter.

The minute I step on whatever will transport me from one place to another, my mind swims through related food memories, and I just have to eat. So since I know I will have a craving for something other than a moist, soggy, chewy and never-ever crunchy baguette from the Amtrak train, and after being so spoiled with the food from El Chepe Train, I am packing my own Torta.

Torta (according to me…): A satisfying and delicious, self contained, easy to transport, edible package filled with tasty ingredients that just love to schmooze together.

I guess we owe a big part of the Torta to the French, since the bolillo or telera bread used to make them, is the Mexican adaptation of the French Baguette. Brought to Mexico City in the 1860s by Emperor Maximilian’s troupe of cooks, its use quickly spread out throughout the country. Maximilian ruled over Mexico’s very own, very last and very short-lived European Monarchy. Although it was unfortunate politically (he ended up executed for one thing), it was blissful in a culinary sense.

When it comes to Tortas, I have eaten a fair share of variations. There are outstanding long established Torta stands and shops where I grew up, each with a peculiar signature twist. Moreover, my father is famous in our food-centered family for making blow-your-mind-away ones (his favorite has sardines, Mexican avocado, white onion and pickled Jalapeños).

But I think the best Torta I ever had (sorry Papi) was in the state of Michoacán at the home of Diana Kennedy. Aside from an outstanding Torta maker, she is also one of the most respected authorities in Mexican cooking, and a woman whose books I have happily swallowed whole.

I ate Diana’s Torta almost ten years ago, when I was a production assistant for a PBS cooking series based in Texas. I traveled with the production team to different locations in Mexico, as each show focused on the foods of a specific region. There was of course one show about Diana and the food from Michoacán, her beloved and adopted home. She prepared many dishes to feature on the show and by the time lunch came, she assembled a Torta for each of the, by then, desperately famished members of the crew.

It tasted like a little piece of Michoacano heaven.

The bread, if freshly baked that day, doesn’t need to be toasted. Most of the ingredients Diana used were brought from the nearby pueblo that morning, including the fresh cheese and the farm style ham. She had homemade refried beans and pickled Jalapeños which I think were the biggest treat of it all.

Pack my own torta 1

Here is how I assembled mine for today, in memory of Diana’s:

I sliced the bolillos in half, but since I bought them yesterday I toasted them slightly. On one side I spread home made pinto refried beans (I had leftover from the sopes I made last night). On the other side, some fork smashed slices of avocado. Then went a layer of queso fresco or fresh cheese and one of smoked turkey (what could be found in my refrigerator), slices of tomato, onion, a very generous spoonful of Mexican style cream and a layer of homemade pickled Jalapeños, so packed, it seemed like a Torta wallpaper.

Right before adding the top half, I sprinkled a bit of salt, a habit I got from my father. It seems to help the flavors from all the ingredients shine through.

NOTE: For the bread you can use bolillo, telera, Portuguese rolls or small baguettes. the refried beans as well as the pickled Jalapeños can be homemade or there are excellent brands of already made ones at the stores.

Pack my own torta main
Print Recipe
4.34 from 3 votes

TORTA

Some people get motion sickness when they travel. Some people get hungry. I am among the latter. The minute I step on whatever will transport me from one place to another, my mind swims through related food memories… and I just have to eat. So since I know I will have a craving for something other than a moist, soggy, chewy and never-ever crunchy baguette from the Amtrak train, and after being so spoiled with the food from El Chepe Train, I am packing my own Torta.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time5 minutes
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Antojo, Avocado, bolillo, cheese, chicken, ham, mexican crema, mozzarella, Oaxaca cheese, onion, Pickled Jalapeños, queso fresco, Recipe, refried beans, Sandwich, telera, Tomatoes, Torta, turkey
Servings: 1 hungry traveler
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 bolillos teleras, Portuguese rolls or small baguettes
  • 2 tablespoons refried beans
  • 1/2 ripe Mexican avocado peeled and sliced
  • 4 slices of queso fresco or fresh cheese farmers cheese, Oaxaca or Mozzarella
  • 4 cups to 6 slices of turkey ham or 1/2 cooked shredded chicken
  • 1 sliced and seeded tomato
  • 2 to 4 thin slices of white onion
  • 2 generous tablespoons of Mexican or any Latin style cream
  • Pickled Jalapeños homemade or storebought to taste ( Jalapeños en Escabeche/Vinagre)
  • Salt to taste optional

Instructions

  • Slice the bolillos in half lengthwise. If not fresh, toast them slightly for a couple minutes. On one side spread a tablespoon of refried beans and on the other mash 1/4 of an avocado with a fork. Top the base half with a couple slices of cheese, 2 or 3 slices of turkey, a couple slices of tomato and onion.
  • Drizzle a tablespoon of Mexican style cream and crown your package with as many pickled Jalapeños as your heart desires. Sprinkle a bit of salt if you want. Place the top half and slice the Torta horizontally.
  • Eat it or wrap it up so it may travel along with you.

Unforgettable Rice from El Chepe

I wish each day had ten more hours so I could tell you about so many dishes already.

This is how behind I feel in all I want to share: Six weeks ago our family came back from the Copper Canyon in Mexico. I took notes, pictures, short videos, interviewed cooks, planted myself in their kitchens until forcefully uprooted by my husband, and ate like a mad woman from any interesting sounding dish, which was practically everything (partly with the purpose to come and tell you all about it…).

Then we came home, and life got in the way… I took longer to launch this site because I wanted to add more sections. By the time it was ready, so many weeks had gone by, I was eager to share more recent food excursions from my kitchen.

Yesterday, these red tomatoes reminded me of my delayed purpose. They looked perfectly ripe to become the base for that Mexican Style Rice we ate at the Chepe train (formally known as the Chihuahua al Pací­fico). It was unbelievable. Not only how good it tasted, but where and how it is made, every day.

Unforgettable rice from el chepe 2-thumb-510x342-1914
I expected to find scrumptious food along the Copper Canyon, but not aboard the train.  Used to pre-packaged sandwiches and microwaved hot dogs on the Amtrak, it was such a treat to choose from a full menu of home-style food.

As we sat on the cushy blue seats, we were amazed at how the individual place settings set on the wooden tables jumped without falling as the train rocked on the old wooden tracks.  With the light from the sun peeking through the window, the formally dressed waiters coming out of the kitchen appeared to step out from the Mexican 19th century, with charming mustaches in the like of the long gone Profirian era and all.

Unforgettable rice from el chepe 3-thumb-510x342-1916
More amazement, as they poured coffee, dancing as on a tight rope with the steaming pots at least 10 inches away from the cups they were aiming to fill. But even more amazement, after we tasted the food. Such good food on a train? I had puntas de filete with a side of refried beans, quesadillas and the best ever Mexican style rice. Even before dessert, this felt like a trip within the trip itself.

Each time, I would ask the waiter to introduce me to the cook in turn. There were not one but three cooks in a fully sized and stocked kitchen. Balancing as if on steady ground, up and down bridges, inside tunnels and around curves, they made some of the most comforting foods I can think of.

Unforgettable rice from el chepe 4-thumb-510x342-1918
Here is a tip:  when you go to the Chepe, disregard when train officers say the Restaurant is closed.  It seems to be a technique to help guests avoid long waits (or a bottleneck in the kitchen).  Go check it out yourself, there is typically no line and by the time they announce its open, the train ride may be over.  If you are not planning on going to the Chepe train soon, here is the recipe for that deliciously satisfying Mexican rice, shared by the chef in charge of the Chepe’s food and menu, Jesus Ley.

unforgettable rice from el chepe 5-thumb-510x342-1920
There are of course many variations to this dish. You can substitute fresh tomato puree for 1 1/2 cups of canned puree. Except for few rice dishes, I always add some fresh squeezed lime juice. It makes it crisp and helps the flavors of the other ingredients shine through, but it is optional.You can include the carrots and peas, exclude them or change that vegetable such as by adding green beans and red bell peppers.

And yes, that chile serrano you see in the picture is optional. You can omit it, substitute it for a jalapeño, and can add a couple more if you like. But if you are having Mexicans over, watch out: those chiles that have absorbed the flavors from all the ingredients in that pot, are the rice treasure we all hunt for.

mexican red rice
Print Recipe
4.50 from 6 votes

Mexican Style Rice

Arroz Rojo
Prep Time10 minutes
Cook Time25 minutes
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: carrots, chicken broth, lime, Mexican rice, pati's mexican table, peas, rice, serrano chiles, Tomatoes
Servings: 6 to 8 people
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 cups white rice
  • 2 tomatoes or about 1 pound, quartered
  • 1/3 cup white onion roughly chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves peeled
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt or more to taste
  • 3 tablespoons safflower or corn oil
  • 3 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth or water
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice optional
  • 2 parsley sprigs
  • 3/4 cup carrots peeled and diced, optional
  • 1/2 cup shelled green peas fresh of frozen, optional
  • 1 or 2 chiles serranos optional

Instructions

  • In a bowl, soak the rice in hot water for about 5 minutes. Rinse with cold water and drain very well.
  • While the rice soaks, purée the tomatoes in the blender along with the onion, garlic and salt. Pass through a strainer and reserve.
  • Heat the oil in a thick heavy skillet (if you have one with a transparent lid, pick that one) over medium high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the rice and sauté, stirring often, until the color of the rice changes to a strong milky white and it shows more resistance and makes a heavier sound as you stir it around, probably about 3 to 4 minutes.
  • Pour in the strained tomato purée, mix it gently and let it cook until the color of the purée has darkened, thickened and is mostly absorbed, about 3 more minutes.
  • Stir in the chicken or vegetable broth and lime juice, give it a gentle stir and top with the parlsey sprig, the diced carrots, peas and serrano chiles, if so desired.
  • Let it all come to a boil, and when it does, put the cover on and reduce the heat to low and cook for about 20 minutes. Here is where that transparent lid becomes so handy, as you can see what is going on inside the pot without losing steam. You know the rice is ready when it is cooked through and tender, most of the liquid has been absorbed, but there is a lot of moisture in the pot. If the rice is not yet tender and the liquid has dried up, add a couple tablespoons more water, cover again and let it cook for a couple more minutes.
  • Let the rice sit covered for at least 5 minutes before you fluff with a fork and serve. You may also make it beforehand and reheat it covered over low heat with a tablespoon of water.

A salad to dress and impress

I have come to realize a couple things regarding a group get together around here.

For one thing pot lucks are so popular. Maybe it’s because they can make entertaining easier and promote a warm feeling of collaboration. I don’t remember many pot luck meals growing up in Mexico. It was generally assumed that the host was in charge of the whole meal and guests arrived with a box of chocolates, a bunch of flowers, or maybe a bottle of wine or tequila too. So that pot luck pitching in element, has been such a nice surprise.

Secondly, no potluck seems to be complete without a salad, which seems to represent the wholeness of a meal and that higher degree of healthfulness. They aren’t always that fat-free. But in any case, they help reduce the guilt we all may feel after indulging in a couple of servings of whatever decadent dish may happen to be there too. Now I just can’t remember having a salad growing up, come what may, in every gathering either. There were vegetable sides, but not always salads. When there were, they either had a welcome exotic twist,  or a to die for “secret” house vinaigrette. And yes! The host would spell out the “secret” with any given opportunity.

As much as pot lucks are based on great principles, they can be damaged if participants think that whatever they bring works out well, just because they are bringing “something.” But here’s the thing, you are not helping much if the main dish is an Indian curry and the salad you walk in with has a creamy, garlicky and heavily parmesanned dressing.

Two ideas come to mind to try make that next pot luck a success. One, someone can be in charge of informing everyone of what others are planning to bring with a bit of detail. If that seems like a hassle, then pick a theme. Just to make sure there are no guns and roses on the table. Another idea, goes to the salad bearer. Instead of a pre mixed salad bag splashed with a random bottled vinaigrette, why not make a flavorful, exotic and wholesome salad? This will pump up the quality of the meal, make the health-minded happier and give the salad maker a ton more satisfaction.

Here, let me give you a salad that you can brag about and then happily devour. One of the most popular salads I have shared in class, it has also prompted a next day email to ask for the recipe whenever we have served it to friends at home. If you bring it to your next pot luck, it will make that table where you set it on, wish it had a mouth to eat it all up.

The original recipe comes from Marí­a Dolores Torres Izabal, one of the leading ladies of the Mexican culinary world and a woman I admire so. As the years have passed, I have adapted it.

jicama

Just the combination of ingredients is exciting enough. It has the depth of the spinach, the tanginess and strong color of the raw beets, the crispness of the typically ignored cabbage, the sharpness of the red onion, the sweetness and chewiness of the dried pineapple or acitrón, and the wonderful crunch, and clean and fresh feel of the jí­camas.

I found the freshest jí­camas today, as you can see in the picture above, though the weather didn’t help much for a good picture (I need a lot more help than a sunny day for that)

This mix of ingredients is first lightly covered in a light oil and vinegar dressing, just to get ready for a luxurious embrace from the creamy Mexican avocado sauce. Now add the flavor of toasted sesame seeds and the satisfying bite you get out of the croutons. Just can’t go wrong.

Oh, and it is practical too, since everything can be prepped at least a day ahead, refrigerated and assembled before serving.

rosura salad
Print Recipe
4.67 from 3 votes

Rosaura Salad

This award winning recipe, adapted from caterer Marí­a Dolores Torres Izabal is festive and colorful. You can prepare all the ingredients ahead of time and assemble right before serving.
Prep Time45 minutes
Cook Time0 minutes
Total Time45 minutes
Course: Salad
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Avocado, beets, Jicama, red cabbage, Rosura, salad, Spinach, vinaigrette
Servings: 12 servings
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

Vinaigrette:

  • 1/4 cup tarragon vinegar
  • 1 garlic clove pressed or finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped white onion
  • 1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil

Avocado dressing:

  • 1 cup milk
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 1 cup Mexican crema
  • 2 ripe avocados
  • 1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt or to taste
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

To serve:

  • 5 cups (or about 1 pound) thinly sliced red cabbage
  • 3 cups peeled and shredded raw beets from about 2 beets
  • 5 cups (or about 8 ounces) spinach rinsed and thinly sliced
  • 5 cups jícama peeled and cut into small sticks (from about 1 jícama)
  • 1/4 of a white onion thinly sliced
  • 3 ounces candied pineapple or other candied fruit
  • 1 cup croutons
  • 1/2 cup lightly toasted sesame seeds

Instructions

For the vinaigrette:

  • Add the vinegar, garlic, chopped onion, salt, and sugar to a small bowl, then whisk in the oils to emulsify.

For the avocado dressing:

  • Place milk and garlic in a blender and puree. Add the lime juice, crema, avocados and salt to taste and blend until smooth. Pour avocado dressing in a bowl and stir in the chives. 

To serve:

  • Combine the cabbage, beets, spinach, jícama, onion and dried pineapple or dried fruit in a salad bowl. 
  • Lightly dress the salad with some of the vinaigrette. Place the salad on the table and leave the avocado dressing, croutons and toasted sesame seeds on the side for people to add as they please.  

Notes

Adapted from Marí­a Dolores Torres Izabal

Jí­cama

Jí­camas are one of the many Mexican ingredients that luckily, have become readily available outside of the country. Also known as Mexican yams or turnips, they are also a root vegetable. But they are far from the latter in flavor, texture or cooking uses.

They are mostly (and as far as I know also successfully) eaten raw. No need to try to cook them, for many of the qualities they are loved for would be lost. They have a similar taste and crunch as the water chestnuts, but in my view, jí­camas are more refreshing, crispy, sweet and watery.

Their size varies, and that has little to do with how good they are. You can find very cute baby jí­camas in Mexico, but I haven’t seen them here. From the outside they look like a coconut once the hard green cover has been removed. Their light brown peel is very fibrous and should be removed before eating. Be sure to peel it well or a very thin white layer that is also fibrous and uncomfortable to eat remains there. Inside they are white and appear to be moist, given how watery they are.

In Mexico they are an incredibly popular snack, which is very convenient since they are low fat, filled with proteins, filling and easy to digest. They are eaten by themselves or combined with other vegetables or fruits, drizzled with fresh lime juice, salt and dried ground chile, such as Piquí­n, or a chile sauce, such as Bufalo or Valentina, to name a few. They are also a favorite ingredient for salads. Lately, when we have visited Mexico, I have seen sophisticated twists such as vegetarian versions of enchiladas and tacos, in which they are sliced incredibly thin and used as a wrap.

When you go look for Jí­camas, choose those hard to the touch and with no signs of moisture on their peel. Once you bring them home, refrigerate them until ready to use. But don’t let many days go by or they will age and become mushy and acquire an unappealing flavor. You know they have passed their time if once you peel and slice them, instead of white, the flesh has become light brown. After they are peeled and sliced, keep them covered in the refrigerator or they will dry considerably.

Tostada Buzz: To infinity, and beyond!

I am so surprised tostadas haven’t become wildly popular in the US. Here are some reasons for my surprise…

They can be assembled in a couple minutes, as ingredients can be prepared beforehand or store-bought. They can be eaten anytime of day, depending on what you layer on them. They are a wholesome one stop meal, for proteins, vegetables and carbohydrates happily mingle in there. They are accommodating, you can decide how much to add of each topping. They are forgiving, choices can vary from one tostada to the next. Moreover, they are fun to prepare, eat and share.

In a sense, they are the perfect dish for casual entertaining. So much of Mexican food just lends itself to being in a Fiesta mood.

What can you layer on a tostada? Well, almost anything! There are regional specialties, traditional favorites, modern twists and family staples. Yet, after the hundreds of variations there is a lot of room to play and create your own. But for a memorable tostada, you need to know some simple basics.

First of all, start with a good tostada. A tostada is a corn tortilla that is either toasted (that is what the word tostada translates to in English) or deep fried until golden and crisp.

Now, you can go as hands on as you want. You can make your own tortillas or buy the already made tortillas and make your own tostadas. But there are pretty good ready to eat tostadas at the stores. If that’s the way you want to go, try a couple brands to see which you like best. They do taste different. Once you have the tostadas, you already have a filling, crunchy and sturdy base for your creation.

The most common tostadas add a layer of smooth and tasty refried beans, home made or store bought. From there, you can go many ways.

My sister Karen likes to host tostada parties. She places a basket with tostadas, a bowl of refried beans and different hearty toppings (which shouldn’t be too saucy, just nice and moist, as tostadas are somewhat flat), such as chicken tinga and shredded beef in a chile sauce. She plates fresh garnishes, like Mexican avocado, tomatoes, lettuce, onion, cream and crumbled cheese. Her guests just go around the table adding whatever they feel like on top.

I will leave you with the ones I make most often at home. My kids are happy adding crumbled cheese and Mexican cream on top of the refried beans. I am more satisfied throwing in some shredded chicken, tomato, lettuce, ripe avocado and a salsa verde, made with tomatillos, to drizzle on top.

Don’t let any version stop you though. You may start with the tostadas and the refried beans. From there, it is up to your imagination. It can go to infinity, and beyond!

Print Recipe
5 from 2 votes

Basic Tostadas

I am so surprised tostadas haven’t become wildly popular in the US. Here are some reasons for my surprise…They can be assembled in a couple minutes, as ingredients can be prepared beforehand or store-bought. They can be eaten anytime of day, depending on what you layer on them. They are a wholesome one stop meal, for proteins, vegetables and carbohydrates happily mingle in there. They are accommodating, you can decide how much to add of each topping. They are forgiving, choices can vary from one tostada to the next. Moreover, they are fun to prepare, eat and share.
Prep Time5 minutes
Cook Time5 minutes
Course: Antojos
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: Antojo, Avocado, beans, chicken, corn tortillas, cotija, mexican crema, pati's mexican table, queso fresco, Recipe, refried beans, salsa verde, Tomatoes, tortilla
Servings: 12 tostadas
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 12 corn tostadas
  • 2 cups refried beans warmed up
  • 2 cups shredded chicken
  • 1 cup finely sliced iceberg or romaine lettuce
  • 1 ripe Mexican avocado pitted, peeled and sliced
  • 1 cup tomato sliced
  • 1/2 cup Mexican or Latin style cream
  • 1 cup green tomatillo salsa or your salsa of choice
  • 1 cup Cotija, Fresco or Farmers Cheese crumbled

Instructions

  • Place the tostadas on a large platter and all of the toppings and garnishes in separate bowls.
  • For a complete basic tostada: Layer a couple tablespoons of refried beans on the tostada. Spread a couple tablespoons of shredded chicken, lettuce, and one or two slices each of avocado and tomato. Top it all with a tablespoon or so of crumbled cheese and cream. Drizzle some green salsa, if you wish, to your liking.

Notes

Tostadas

Tostadas and Chips: Make them at Home

Tostadas and chips are very versatile ingredients to have in the kitchen. If you don’t want to make them at home, you can buy good quality already made tostadas and chips in the stores these days.

You can make your own tostadas and chips with homemade corn tortillas or store bought corn tortillas. In either case, spread the tortillas outside of the refrigerator, in your counter, baking sheet or tray for a half hour and up to a couple hours, so they will dry out a bit before baking, toasting or frying. This helps achieve a nicer crispness as they bake, toast or fry.

If you are going to make chips, cut them into 6 triangles before letting them dry.

TOSTADAS
There a couple options:

Fry: Add enough corn, safflower or vegetable oil to a skillet to have about 1/2″ and place over medium heat for about 4 to 6 minutes. Once the oil is hot but not smoking, fry each tortilla for about 45 seconds to 1 minute per side until it achieves a nice golden tanned color (not overwhelmingly brown or it will taste bitter) and crisp texture. To drain, place vertically on a tall metal strainer or lay flat on paper towels.

Toast or Bake: Either let the tortillas toast over a hot comal or dry skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally until they toast and crisp, or place them on a baking sheet in a 350 degree oven for about 25 to 30 minutes, turning them once halfway through, until tanned and crisp.

CHIPS
Different from tostadas, chips typically have a nice sprinkling of kosher or sea salt.

Once you cut the tortillas into triangles and let them dry, you have a couple options as well. They do taste very different, so try and see which method you like best:

Fry: Add enough corn, safflower or vegetable oil to a skillet to have about 1/2 inch and place over medium high heat for about 4 to 6 minutes. Once the oil is hot but not smoking, add enough tortilla triangles (depending on how large your skillet is) to have them in a single layer. It doesn’t matter if some triangles get cozy with others, but you don’t want to add so many that there is more than a cozy single layer.

Let them fry for about 45 seconds to 1 minute on one side, before flipping them over. Let them fry and crisp on the other side for another 30 seconds to 1 minute or until they have achieved a nice golden tanned color (but not overly browned) and are crispy. Remove them from oil and place them in a baking sheet covered with paper towels. Some cooks like to drain them in large and tall metal colanders. Sprinkle with salt to taste.

Toast or Bake: Spray or brush a very light coat of vegetable or corn oil on the tortilla triangles. Either toast over a hot comal or dry skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally until they toast and crisp anywhere from 10 to 15 minutes, flipping every once in a while; or place them on a baking sheet in a 375 degree oven turning them once along the way for about 15 minutes per side, or until tanned and crisp. Remove from oven, sprinkle with salt and let them cool.

Juju’s Chocolate Birthday Cake

“Bandido!” My late grandfather would scream, with his wide smile and the most endearing eyes, to my youngest son, if he were here to see how Julian messes up the kitchen.

As soon as a thought of cooking appears in my head, he drags a chair, climbs on top, asks  what are WE going to make, and without waiting for an answer announces that it is “yo, yo, YO…,” who will cook and experiment. I shall be of assistance.

Needless to say, it takes much longer than needed and the kitchen looks messier than my husband likes to see it. But if you ask me, it is worth every extra second and extra spoonful of crumbs on the floor.

Well then, what cake to make for his birthday? Of course chocolate! His brothers tell me with a tone of disbelief. However, I know it has to be spongy, fluffy, gooey, sticky, moist, extra messy, sweet and truly decadent to be worthy of the three candles in its middle.

Since I will count with not only one, but probably three, enthusiastic sous chefs, the cake should have a fun and simple preparation process.

After playing around with a couple ideas, a cross between my oldest sons’ favorite camp cake and what I remember from my growing up birthday cakes from Sanborns (a Mexican store famous for making incredible cakes) is what creates: Juju’s birthday cake!

Thank the heavens and the seas for the wonderful surprises one can encounter while playing in the kitchen. It just never stops! This one is definitely worth a try.

jujus birthday cake main
Print Recipe
4.43 from 7 votes

Juju’s Birthday Cake

After playing around with a couple ideas, a cross between my oldest sons’ favorite camp cake and what I remember from my growing up birthday cakes from Sanborns (a Mexican store famous for making incredible cakes) is what creates: Juju’s birthday cake! Thank the heavens and the seas for the wonderful surprises one can encounter while playing in the kitchen. It just never stops! This one is definitely worth a try.
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time25 minutes
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: cake, Chocolate, Dessert, pati's mexican table, vanilla
Servings: 10 to 12 people
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

For the cake:

  • 1 cup water
  • 2/3 cup cocoa
  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 3/4 cups sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 cup sour cream
  • 2 large eggs preferably at room temperature

For the frosting:

  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla
  • 1/2 cup cocoa
  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter
  • 2 cups confectioners' sugar
  • 1/4 cup sprinkles optional

Instructions

To prepare the cake:

  • Grease a 9x13-inch cake pan with butter. Cover the bottom of the pan with parchment paper. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  • In a large pot, over medium heat, pour the water, stir in the cocoa and add the butter. Let it heat for a few minutes, stirring now and then, until it all dissolves. Remove the pot from the heat.
  • In another bowl, combine the flour, sugar, salt, baking soda and baking powder. In another, beat the eggs and combine them with the sour cream.
  • In turns, add a quarter of the flour mix and then a quarter of the sour cream mix at a time into the pot with the cocoa mixture; stir with a spatula, mixing all of the ingredients as you move along. Pour onto the greased cake pan and place in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out barely moist but not wet.
  • Take the cake out of the oven and let it cool a bit while you prepare the frosting.

To prepare the frosting:

  • In a saucepan, over medium heat, pour in the milk and the vanilla. Stir in the cocoa and add the butter. Heat and stir until everything is all dissolved and combined. Remove from the heat and stir in the confectioners' sugar. Thoroughly mix with a spatula and set aside.

To assemble:

  • Run the tip of a knife around the edges of the cake. Turn the cake onto a platter and gently remove the parchment paper. Pour the still-warm frosting over the cake and gently spread it out with a spatula. If you wish, you may add sprinkles of your choice before the frosting hardens (NOTE: The cake is soft and moist the first couple days, then hardens like a brownie afterwards if left uncovered-- perfect for packing in school lunches).

Notes

Pastel de chocolate de Juju

Charring: How to Char Ingredients

One way to add a nice rustic feel to a dish is to char, or roast, a few of the ingredients. Charring concentrates and deepens the flavor of an ingredient and brings out a subtle sweetness.

It is one of the signature cooking techniques in Mexico where, traditionally, ingredients like chiles, onion, garlic, spices, herbs, tomatillos and tomatoes are charred on comales or directly over the flame. If you don’t have a comal, or don’t want to cook directly over the burner, you can just as easily char ingredients on a grill or in a skillet.

Or, the way I find to be the easiest and fastest: in a pan under the broiler in your oven. Put the ingredients on a large sheet pan leaving plenty of space between them so they roast, not steam, and broil until they are nicely browned on one side. Carefully flip and repeat on the other side.

You want the outside to darken until almost black, and the inside cooked and transformed, but not burnt.

Below are the specific techniques for a couple of the ingredients most often charred in Mexican recipes: tomatoes and garlic.

Charring tomatoes

Charring tomatoes, aside from concentrating and deepening their flavor, brings out their sweetness and juices.

To char or roast tomatoes, you can either place them directly on a grill,  or on an already hot comal or griddle over medium heat, for about 10 minutes, turning them around a couple times. However, for me the easiest method is to place them in a single layer in a baking sheet or shallow pan under the broiler for 7 to 10 minutes. Turn them once in the process.

You know tomatoes are ready once they are completely cooked through and mushy, their skin is charred, blistered and wrinkled, and juices have started to come out.

Charring Garlic

Place unpeeled and pricked cloves (so they don’t make popping sounds) on the already hot comal over medium heat. Turn from time to time until they are charred on the outside and soft but not burnt on the inside, about 6 minutes. You can also place under the broiler for 3 to 4 minutes.

Molcajete

The molcajete is a cooking tool that although not absolutely necessary these days, it does have its uses, benefits and looks. Mexico’s version of the mortar and pestle (the pestle being called tejolote) it has been used for thousands of years to pound, smash, grind and mix ingredients such as herbs, spices and chiles, create rubs, pastes and sauces.

It is traditionally made of basalt volcanic rock, which is very porous and rough and it makes it very heavy. There are however, newer versions of lighter material, that I am not so fond off. When new, there are many takes of how to “cure” them, so they can begin to be used. Some people grind white rice, while others grind peeled garlic cloves.  I like to do both. So just take either one or the other, or both, and grind them with the pestle. Then just wash with a soapy sponge and rinse under cold water.

Molcajetes stand on three short legs.

They are sometimes carved in the shape of an animal, most typically pigs, which can look friendly or quite scary.

piggy molcajete

A wonderful thing about molcajetes, is that since they are so porous they have a remarkable memory. They store within them, the essences, oils, smells and flavors of all that has been served or made in them. Maybe that’s why it is said that molcajetes season with time and use. Maybe that’s also why it is said that making a sauce or rub or paste in a molcajete makes it taste better.

While it is not an essential cooking tool in most homes, some people are adamant about their use for Mexican food, as it does make a difference in taste. Also, it is used as a serving dish for salsas and guacamoles both in homes and restaurants as well as hot sauces and dishes because it keeps food warm for a long time.

Tortillas: Make Corn Tortillas at Home

Yes, you can buy them already made at the store, but there are few things that can’t compare to the nurturing and filling sensation of homemade corn tortillas.

And the great thing is, we can buy the premade corn tortilla flour of extraordinary quality in the US these days, so you don’t have to nixtamalize the corn kernels (dry in the sun, cook and soak in hot water with lime, peel and grind to a paste) through a process of more that 36 hours to make your own fresh corn tortilla dough. Here is how you make them.

Print Recipe
4.80 from 5 votes

Corn Tortillas

Yes, you can buy them already made at the store… but there are few things that can compare to the nurturing and filling sensation of homemade corn tortillas.
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time10 minutes
Course: Antojos, Side Dish
Cuisine: Mexican
Keyword: corn tortillas, dough, masa, pati's mexican table, Recipe, tortilla
Servings: 10 to 12 tortillas
Author: Pati Jinich

Ingredients

  • 2 cups corn tortilla flour such as MASECA
  • 1 3/4 cup water or enough to achieve a play dough consistency dough! varies with climate
  • Pinch of salt optional

Instructions

  • Set a comal or ungreased dry skillet over medium heat, for at least 5 to 8 minutes, until thoroughly heated. (If your pan isn’t hot enough, the tortillas will stick.)

To make masa or dough:

  • Mix together the flour, salt, and water in a large mixing bowl and knead the masa in a circular motion. Do so for a couple minutes, until the dough feels smooth and has no lumps. If it feels too dry, add a bit more water. Masa dries out fast, so if you leave it unattended, cover it with a clean moist kitchen towel or cloth.

To make the tortillas:

  • Cut out 2 plastic circles from a thin plastic bag, like ones you get at grocery stores. (Don’t use plastic wrap.) Roll a piece of the masa in your palm into a ball about 1 1/2″ in diameter. Place one plastic circle on the bottom of the tortilla press and place the masa ball on top. Place the other plastic circle on top of the ball and press down the press to make a flat disk, jiggling the press a little as you get to the bottom (this makes a rounder tortilla). Open the press and check the tortilla for dryness and, if needed, add water to the remaining masa (the masa should be as soft and smooth as Play-Doh). Take the top plastic off, lift the bottom plastic with the tortilla in one hand and peel the tortilla from the plastic with the other hand.
  • Alternatively, you can place a ball between plastic sheets or parchment paper and roll the tortillas out with a rolling pin. They should be about 5″ in diameter and about 1/8″ thick.
  • Place the tortilla on the hot comal or skillet. Let it cook for at least 30 seconds (resist the urge to touch or adjust it). As soon as it can be flipped without sticking to the comal – it should be opaque on the side that it was cooking on. Flip with a spatula and cook for about a minute, until opaque and starting to freckle on the other side. If it is opaque but it has white-ish areas, you need to leave it a bit more, until those white-ish shadows become freckled with brown spots. Turn over once more, and now, after a couple seconds, tortilla should puff up like pita bread, if not all over tortilla, at least in an area of it. Let the tortilla cook still, for about 10 seconds, so that it cooks in between the area that puffed up.
  • If eaten that same day, tortillas may be kept wrapped in a clean kitchen towel or cloth. If not, wrap in a kitchen towel, inside a closed plastic bag and place in the refrigerator. They will keep for up to 3 days, afterwards they will turn too hard. Reheat in hot comal for 30 seconds or so on each side before eating. They can also be frozen and kept for months.

Chipotle Chiles in Adobo Sauce

Chipotles in adobo sauce are one of my favorite Mexican ingredients. They are ready to be spooned on top or inside of almost anything: quesadillas, tacos, sandwiches, grilled meats. Yet, they are also a wonderful cooking ingredient to use for making a wide range of dishes, from soups to moles, from salsas to stews and even mashed potatoes.  Chipotles have truly unique layers of flavor that come together in a most wonderful way: smoky, sweet, deep, rich and pleasantly spicy.

Chipotle Chiles in Adobo 1

The chipotles in adobo are Jalapeño chiles that have been ripened to a deep red, dried, smoked and pickled in a combination of vinegar, spices and tomato puree.

Yes! If you want to make your own, follow my recipe. However, ready to buy chipotles in adobo sauce in cans and glass jars are a staple in Mexican pantries and stores have a wide array of brands to choose from, each with their own peculiar spin.  Should you opt for buying them as most people do, try a couple of different brands, they do vary in flavor.